Be the Sole of Discretion and Translate Any Chic Shoe Style

First, I’d put money into shoes . . . . Whatever you wear, shoes are terribly important.”

-Diana Vreeland, giving how-to-dress advice in “Cheap Chic”

There’s no denying that wearing well-made, well-designed shoes is well worth the price you pay. They look good, they feel good, they make you feel good. They telegraph things about your style--chic or hip or sexy or practical or fun or anti-fashion--faster and better than any other article of clothing you can buy. Some styles parlent francais , such as the Chanel cap-toe spectator and the Hermes moccasin, and the avant-garde-accented pumps, Oxfords and boots by Robert Clergerie and Stephane Kelian. Others, such as Gucci’s brass-bit moccasin, parlano italiano . And still others, such as Ralph Lauren’s Ivy-League-style shoes and boots and Manolo Blahnik’s sexy slippers, say it in English.

Unfortunately, it will cost you a good bit more than the average Cablegram to dash about in the real thing. Prices for these labels start in the high $200s and climb into the four figures. If you’d like to get your point across for a more concise amount of cash, here are some places to look:

BARNEYS NEW YORK

The most forward of the forward--men’s cuts, broad-toes, geometric heels--are represented in Barneys private label designs. There are pumps, flats and Oxfords perfectly suited to the structured jackets, pants and long skirts that are making the news.

Sporting that distinctive French flair are broad, square-toed high-heel pumps in black or ivy green leather ($150) or zebra-stenciled calf ($85); the elongated-toe slipper comes with a flared squared heel in brown leather ($110).

Taking the menswear look to its logical conclusion are the classic narrow-look cap-toe Oxfords in black or brown leather ($190) and the two-tone gangster-look lace-ups in black with white ($95). For those who think feminine footwear should look like feminine footwear, there’s a slim-toed high-vamp lace-up shoe on a low Louis heel in cranberry, tan, navy or black suede ($115).

South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa , (714) 434-7400.

FIRST BELLISSIMO!

An eclectic stock that’s a little of this trend, a little of that, sometimes all in the same shoe. There’s the heavier version of that Italian loafer with the golden-bit trim in red, mustard, light brown or dark brown suede ($105) and a terrific Lagerfeldish leather slipper in red, brown or black featuring wide suede piping all around the top and a strip across the toe ($130).

Showing a design influence closer to home are the mannish-looking cap-toe, lace-up ankle boots in black or brown leather ($155) and the slip-on leather flat with perforated trim in all black or in a black-and-brown spectator ($130).

Fashion Island Newport Beach, (714) 721-8820.

I. MAGNIN

If you like your French classics served up straight, there’s Delman’s excellent version of the cap-toe spectator flat in white leather with a black toe, navy with navy or black with a black toe ($165), and Paloma’s low-cut low-heel spectator pump in black leather with a black patent toe cap or white with a gold toe cap ($125).

If you prefer them with a twist, there’s the I. Magnin private label cap-toe spectator on a high curved heel and decorated with a leather-laced gold-tone chain across the toe, in bone leather with black toe cap or red with black patent toe cap ($130). In an Italian look there’s a dandy two-tone flat moccasin with the bit trim in black with white, navy with white or tan with white ($82).

Fashion Island Newport Beach, (714) 759-1211.

NEIMAN MARCUS

The platform cap-toe pump shows up here in a very nice evening version by Pancaldi in taupe faille with a brown toe cap or navy with black ($230). The store typically has broad selections of fine cap-toe day and evening shoes by Bruno Magli and Ferragamo.

In a Magli, there’s a slim low-cut pump on a high Louis heel, in red leather with a black leather toe and heel, bone with black, black with black patent ($225) and black crepe with black satin ($219). Among the Ferragamos, there’s a lovely black suede pump on a curved mid-heel and featuring narrow black leather piping around the top and across the toe ($235).

Fashion Island Newport Beach, (714) 759-1900.

NINE WEST

All the major trends, most priced under $100. Like one style by that famous French saddlery is a flat suede moccasin trimmed with a gold lock (as in the Kelly bag), in black, brown, red, green or blue ($49).

Also French-inspired are the cap-toe spectator flats in white with black toe and heel, white with navy, brown with black or black with black patent ($68), and the cap-toe leather ballet flat in all white or all bone or black with black patent ($37). There’s a Gucci-style moccasin flat in high-gloss black, brown or green leather ($42).

You’ll see several Ralph Lauren looks too, such as the flat wingtip tassel loafer in tan, brown or black leather ($49) or the man-style wingtip Oxford in caramel or black leather ($65).

Note: Not all styles in all stores. Brea Mall, (714) 529-0609; South Coast Plaza, (714) 540-4473; Crystal Court, (714) 540-2243; MainPlace/Santa Ana, (714) 547-5020, and Westminster Mall, (714) 891-5589.

PRIVILEGE

Trendy styles that clearly follow the leaders in Europe, such as the black or brown leather platform Oxford with slanted toe and set-back heel ($155) and the platform slant-toe flat in maroon suede ($105).

In a more casual look, there’s the soft twill-lined flat in black or red or ivory leather with black suede toe cap and top piping, or suede in all-blue or all-rust ($130); Gucci-style moccasins in black or brown nubuck with animal-print hair-calf vamp and set on a thick crepe sole ($95), or in a soft unlined flat in gray, navy, black, maroon or off-white suede ($35).

In an evening shoe, you can see Blahnik’s influence in a black suede mule on a slim Louis heel and with a toe draped in a sparkly organza gathered into a rhinestone buckle ($180).

South Coast Plaza , (714) 432-7773.

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Expect to see the hallmarks of French and Italian design in Saks’ private label offerings, such as the stylish low platform cap-toe spectator pump on a chunky square heel, in beige with black patent toe-cap, black suede with black patent, white leather with gold leather or navy faille with navy leather ($130).

There is also a dressy platform sling-back in clear vinyl with black faille toe, heel and piping, or with royal blue suede or with gold leather ($115), or the businesslike taupe leather mid-heel pump with black piping around the top and across the toe ($98).

South Coast Plaza , (714) 540-3233.