1992: Vintage News

Wine made news on several fronts in 1992: Red wine sales rose dramatically in the wake of a television broadcast; many wineries introduced light red wines, and bankruptcies and consolidations among California wineries moved many stories from the food sections to the business pages.

But perhaps the major news event for the wine industry in 1992 was the federal government’s crackdown on any statement on wine labels or advertising, however mild, that might hint at the possible benefits of moderate wine consumption.

The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms signaled its war on such statements early in the year when it demanded that Oxnard’s Leeward Winery stop distributing a newsletter that quoted from the CBS “60 Minutes” broadcast of Nov. 17, 1991, which mentioned the possible benefits of moderate consumption of red wine.

By March, red wine sales were soaring--so high, in fact, that Gallo Hearty Burgundy, the world’s best-selling red wine, went on allocation. Moreover, sales of all Merlot wines nearly doubled over 1991, and many wineries put out light red wines to appeal to the newly created red wine consumer.

In summer, white wine got its chance when a report from Dr. Arthur Klatsky of Kaiser Permanente in Oakland said that moderate daily consumption of white wine could also reduce the risk of heart disease.

A dispute arose between producers of bulk sparkling wine (who wanted permission to remove the words “bulk process” from their labels) and premium producers (who sought to retain the status quo).

On the business front, the historic Hanns Kornell Winery was closed, forced into liquidation when it couldn’t pay its debts. A half dozen other wineries filed for protection at bankruptcy court to ward off creditors, and Lambert Bridge winery in Sonoma decided to close without finding a buyer.

Good Ideas Dept.: A Sonoma County winery and a Southern California retail grocery chain had agreed that the winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon would be “cross-merchandised” in the “health and beauty aids” section of the store bearing a neck-hanger advertising “The French Paradox,” a book that looks at wine’s role in a healthful diet. But before the promotion could be implemented, the winery owner, fearing a backlash, killed the deal.

Quote of the Year: Phil Baxter, who now owns his own Philippe-Loraine wine brand: “I’ve been a winemaker and a real estate salesman. Now all I have to do is open a restaurant and really finish myself off.”

What Wine Goes With No Food?: Wente Bros. expanded its wine sales in Russia.

Truer Words Were Never Spoken: The St. Helena Star carried a story about Sutter Home Winery and mentioned that the winery had a Sauvignon Bland.

The Thanks I Get: Gary Farrell has spent the better part of his winemaking life trying to perfect Pinot Noir. So at the 1992 Sonoma County Harvest Fair wine competition he won the sweepstakes award for the best red wine . . . for his 1990 Gary Farrell Zinfandel.

Oops: A public relations firm representing the Jack Daniels Distillery sent out a multi-page press release touting a whiskey-laced hot-toddy recipe that supposedly was used by novelist William Faulkner. The press release called it “a cold-season remedy.” Four days later, the public relations firm that wrote the press release sent out a complete retraction, saying the distillery “makes no health claims for its whiskey.”

Wine Cartoon of the Year: A man, clearing the dining room table after a dinner party, is saying to his wife, standing at the kitchen sink: “Sure, they drank it, but did they get it?” From The New Yorker, May.

Runner-Up Cartoon of the Year: Two squirrels are sitting on a tree branch. One, nibbling on an acorn, is saying: “A little nutty with a trace of oak.” From the New Yorker, August.

Succinct: Zach Berkowitz, vice president of vineyard operations for Domaine Chandon, was asked to assess the tempo of the 1992 harvest, which came in fits and starts: “This vintage is like driving to the gas station on your temporary spare.”

Wrist Slaps: The BATF was embarrassed three times, twice by the courts and once by the U.S. State Department, over the way it implemented regulations. A court said BATF had exceeded its authority by demanding that Black Death Vodka be renamed. Another court said BATF could not prohibit beer from carrying its alcoholic content on its package. And State Department officials reproached BATF for harassing Miguel Torres, owner of a powerful Spanish winery, for comments he made regarding the possible healthful benefits of moderate wine consumption.

Women and Wine: A Fresno State University Extended Education program was to feature tastings of premium wines. The catalogue offering the course said attendees would “explore the wine-making styles of the winemakers and wineries in selected regions of California.” Someone in the Extended Education office appended the phrase: “Pregnant women will not be admitted to the program.” After women’s groups and wine industry executives protested, the university apologized, canceled the courses and said future course bulletins would have no such prohibition.

What’s in a Name: Frederick Wildman & Sons awarded a $7,500 research fellowship to a UC Davis viticultural student by the name of Tom Collins.

Happy sipping in ’93.