THE WINE LIST

Il Fornaio’s well-selected, 50-wine list starts at the low end with a decent red and white--a 1990 Trebbiano and a 1990 Montepulciano, each $13--and tops out with the 1988 Solaia, Antinori’s Cabernet-based powerhouse, at $100.

In between are good choices for lighter and heavier dishes. For the former, I’d pick 1990 Dolcetto from La Cascina, $19.75. And with heavier dishes I’d select 1985 Bruno Giacosa Barolo, $37.50.

For white wine fans, this list has 10 wines priced less than $20, with 1991 Stony Hill Riesling, $17.75, my pick for an aperitif. (It would work with lighter main dishes, too.)