When Erin Rogers and Charlie Young opened...

When Erin Rogers and Charlie Young opened the Lighthouse Deli/Cafe in San Pedro in 1989, they served cold deli foods. But the menu evolved and now consists of a combination of original and traditional American, Italian and Mexican dishes--hot and cold.

Named after the nearby Point Fermin Lighthouse, the restaurant’s large windows, mirrored wall and white furniture create a bright, almost glowing atmosphere that goes well with the friendly staff. Splashes of color are provided by the little vases of fresh flowers on each table.

My favorite seat is at the counter next to the cash register, where during the day one encounters Regina, a waitress so vivacious she’d cure B.B. King of the blues. She’ll probably call you “baby doll” after she hands you a menu.

Most of the regular customers, however, eschew the menu in favor of the daily chalkboard specials. One such special, Jeanie’s corn pie, is corn bread with jalapeno, Ortega chilies, creamed corn and jack and Cheddar cheese served with a grilled breast of chicken that has been marinated in lime juice and garlic and served with a cilantro butter sauce ($7.25). There is also beef stroganoff ($7.95) or Cajun jambalaya ($7.95), in which shrimp, chicken, sausage, zucchini and bell peppers are set over a bed of rice.

Offered occasionally are pupusas , the Salvadoran specialty of a grilled and stuffed corn dough pancake. One stuffing consists of spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and Cheddar cheese ($5.95).

Sandwiches are always offered. The Sunken City ($7.25), is prime rib on grilled sourdough with melted Cheddar and jack cheese and a horseradish sauce.

Co-owner Charlie Young is justly proud of his cioppino ($12.95), an Italian seafood stew served Friday and Saturday, for which he recently won the 1992 San Pedro Fisherman’s Fiesta award for best cioppino.

Lighthouse Deli/Cafe is at 508 W. 39th St., San Pedro. (310) 548-3354. Open Tuesday through Saturday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., closed Monday. Beer and wine are served.