Deep in the Heart of <i> Ranchera</i>

When Maggie De Anda visits La Fonda, she and a friend take a table in the rear of the restaurant.

On the small stage 40 feet away, in front of a mural of a Mexican plaza, the restaurant’s 12-member mariachi band, Los Camperos de Nati Cano, is breaking into “Volver, Volver.” The full, vibrant sound easily fills the hacienda-style room.

De Anda says she left Mexicali when she was 17, and that was more than a few years ago. Long enough that her English shows only the trace of an accent, long enough for her to become an American citizen.

De Anda wasn’t always a fan of ranchera , as mariachi music is called. When she was living in Mexico, she says, “I was too young. I didn’t appreciate it.” Now she comes to La Fonda once or twice a week to hear Los Camperos.

She pauses as a violinist takes a solo turn singing “Por Tu Maldito Amor.” She listens intently, then says, “When you’re far from your country, the music goes more to your heart.”

Going for the heart, might be the best way to explain ranchera’s appeal. In many ways, it’s like a Mexican opera. With songs full of love gone bad, hearts forever broken, memories still painful, ranchera forms an emotional bond with the listeners.

“It’s music that’s very touching,” says violinist Jesus Guzman. “You always want to hit them in the right place.”

For anyone looking for a hit of ranchera , La Fonda is great place to start. Especially for Anglos whose idea of mariachis may be five guys with guitars and horns in a chain restaurant. Los Camperos is an entirely different level of musicianship.

Since 1969, La Fonda has had one of the best mariachi bands in the country, and it plays here without a cover charge, three or four shows a night, seven nights a week. Every member of the band sings. From the moment they hit the first note, even if you don’t speak Spanish, you know you’re sharing something that’s the best of its class. Linda Ronstadt uses Los Camperos on tours.

A typical night at the restaurant begins at the 5 p.m. opening for dinner, with the first one-hour show at 6:45. This usually attracts a high percentage of Japanese tourists. Their tour bus drops them off for dinner on the way back from Disneyland.

The mariachis praise the Japanese visitors for being so “respectful.” Monica Trevino, the only woman in Los Camperos, says she’s no longer surprised that the Japanese always know the words to “Besame Mucho.” In return, the mariachi know one Japanese song, “Sakura.”

For the show at 8:45, the crowd is primarily Latin families. Ages range from preschoolers to grandparents with many celebrating birthdays and anniversaries.

Los Camperos really respond to this crowd. They take requests, stroll through the room, bring kids up on stage to dance. There’s lots of guacos (short crisp yells), zapateados (quick pounding dances), whistles and bird noises. A pair of folk dancers comes onstage. It’s quite the party.

For the show at 11, and if it’s a weekend, the one at 12:30 a.m., there’s a mixed crowd of couples, some families and people from the neighborhood who come by for a drink along with a few film buffs who wander in from the Vagabond art film theater next door.

The later it gets, the more sentimental the crowd becomes. Some in the crowd sing along, some get teary, some look lost in thought.

But by the evening’s end, the mood is almost euphoric. Perhaps the magic of ranchera is that songs so sad can make someone feel so good.

* The Place: La Fonda.

* Where: 2501 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 380-5055.

* When: Open daily for dinner, weekdays for lunch (no music at lunch). Performances are at 6:45, 9 and 11 p.m. plus 12:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

* Cost: No cover charge. Dinners $10.85 to $15.80. Beers are $3.95. Reservations are recommended.