Eating of the Green : The Spinach Doctors

For years, spinach has been forced down the throats of reluctant children. I was not one of them. As a kid I even loved canned spinach. At school my lunch tray would invariably end up piled high with spinach my friends were only too happy to get rid of. Even Popeye wasn’t seductive enough to get them to eat the stuff.

I don’t blame them really. Eating canned spinach doesn’t come close to the experience of eating fresh spinach.

Now that canned and frozen vegetables are making way for fresh vegetables, perhaps the reputation of spinach can be redeemed. Maybe, like the Italians, Americans can learn not only to eat freshly cooked spinach, but to eat it with pleasure.

There is so much to enjoy: the light mineral flavor, the tenderness of the leaf, the rich green color and especially the restorative powers that Italians feel spinach and, in fact, all leafy greens possess. In Italy, spinach is, as far as I know, always cooked, even when it is served as a “salad,” dressed simply with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice. This is the way I like spinach best--I prefer the more developed flavor and texture of cooked spinach.

In Italy spinach is served many ways. It is sauteed with garlic and flavored with anchovies, or tossed with plumped raisins and toasted pine nuts. It is mixed with ricotta and shaped into dumplings, or the same mixture can be used as a stuffing for fresh pasta. Spinach worked into fresh pasta dough is transformed into lovely paper-thin sheets of green-tinted lasagna verde ; when teamed with Arborio rice, spinach makes a delectable green risotto. But one of my favorite ways of preparing spinach is the way it was served to me at Villa Amore, perched high above the Amalfi coast in the town of Ravello.

The hotel, far from the pulsating energy of urban Italy, hidden up in the mountains, was a perfect place to hide out and rest. I’d been traveling for a month and was exhausted.

When I arrived, it was midday and the reception area was deserted. I walked through the empty dining room to a pretty little terrace bordered by flowers, looking for a desk clerk, then stopped, stunned by the view before me: a long range of mountains bordered by shiny turquoise sea that stretched out to the horizon and down the southern Italian coastline as far as the eye could see. Up and down the mountainsides were isolated farmhouses with red-tiled roofs, and steeply terraced lemon groves heavy with fruit, shrouded in black nylon netting that in cold weather protects the trees from hail. Directly below the terrace were small orchards and kitchen gardens--bare fruit trees sprinkled with white blossoms; neat rows of leafy, flowering fava bean plants; naked, twisted grape vines, and an ancient fig tree, gnarled and knotted, which was just beginning to leaf. It was early spring and beyond the terrace, clouds were forming, turning the brilliant sky to soft blue, then to misty gray.

There was only one other guest staying at the hotel--after all it was well before the tourist season--and my room, small and sparsely furnished, like a monk’s cell, with a balcony overlooking mountains and sea, suited me perfectly.

That evening I entered the dining room, where the other hotel guest sat, eating his solitary dinner. I looked at the menu, but after weeks of exuberant eating, the prospect of more pasta, more risotto, more shellfish, more anything, did not appeal to me.

The waiter approached. I knew what I wanted--it was spring and my body was craving something green and tonic. I ordered spinach. He waited for me to list the rest of my courses, but I explained I had no real appetite and would dine very simply. I had no choice; my stomach had constricted to a hard knot that refused to receive any more food, no matter how delicious it might be. He resigned himself to my request and disappeared into the kitchen.

Before long, the waiter reappeared carrying a white dinner plate mounded high with beautifully cooked, very fresh, very green spinach--sweetened with a touch of butter and enriched with a small grating of Parmesan cheese that had melted into the leaves, leaving a hint of richness and perfume. It was delicious and proved to be the perfect food for a tired body. I ate it all and felt better.

After the spinach, I ate a few strawberries, sipped a little mineral water and stared through the plate-glass windows out into the black night and the silent black sea far below me.

Later that night, I awoke to the sound of thunder, to freezing cold and flashing lights. A monstrous storm had come in across the Mediterranean, wild and relentless. Lying in my narrow bed, I could hear the rain coming down--rain turning to hail that I felt at any moment would shatter the glass of the French doors. I thought of the black netting I’d seen that made the lemon trees look as if they were in mourning.

I got up and, draped in my heaviest coat, walked to the window and opened the curtains. I saw a gigantic flash of lightning illuminating the night; the sea turned white and the mountains looked like ghosts--the world had been drained of color and life, like an X-ray or the negative of a photograph. The storm continued all night long, the lightning and pounding rain, the deep rumbling thunder that rattled the tall wooden shutters outside my windows, and I feared that one of the bolts of lightning, coming so close to little Villa Amore up in the mountains, might strike the hotel and set it ablaze. I climbed back into my bed and shivered under the covers until dawn.

The next morning I peeked out my window expecting to find a battered and broken world; instead, everything was serene. Leaves were glowing green, the sea was a deep dark blue, the sky was clear as a bell, and everything was touched with a silver sheen. Ravello was once again a peaceful haven. That night I ordered spinach again, and that was my dinner every night for the three days that I rested and recuperated at lovely Villa Amore.

The following recipes include spinach seasoned with butter and Parmesan as served at Villa Amore, spinach baked with a topping of tomatoes to serve with polenta, and a spinach risotto enriched with a bit of herb-scented cream.

In this recipe the spinach undergoes two cookings; take care to make each cooking as brief as possible. Overcooking results in stringy spinach that is dark in color and reduced in bulk to practically nothing.

SPINACI AL BURRO 2 bunches spinach, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds Salt 2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 to 4 tablespoons freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese

Clean spinach thoroughly and place in very large skillet with just water that clings to leaves. Season to taste with salt. Cook, covered, over high heat, stirring often to make sure all leaves are exposed to heat. When leaves are just barely tender, drain well in colander and gently press out excess moisture with back of wooden spoon. Do not squeeze spinach dry. Spread leaves on surface of colander and allow to drain further.

Melt butter in medium skillet over low heat. Add spinach leaves. Toss spinach in butter over medium heat, allowing almost all remaining moisture in spinach to evaporate, and spreading out spinach leaves that have clumped together. Add chese and stir until it melts and spinach is hot. Serve immediately. Makes 2 large servings.

Each serving contains about: 206 calories; 538 mg sodium; 36 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 3.03 grams fiber.

A simple spinach risotto is a lovely dish. This one has the added special touch of a small amount of cream infused with fresh herbs stirred into the finished risotto. It is added off the heat, which keeps the flavor of the cream and herbs light and fresh.

The herbs can be anything you like, depending on what’s available. Try basil, chervil, chives, mint, marjoram, rosemary or thyme. Use more of the milder herbs and less of the more potent ones such as marjoram, rosemary and thyme.

GREEN RISOTTO WITH CREAM AND HERBS 6 tablespoons freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese 4 tablespoons fresh whipping cream 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 onion, peeled and finely diced 6 cups homemade beef broth or vegetable broth 1 bunch spinach, cleaned, stemmed, leaves cut into strips 2 cups Arborio rice Salt

Combine 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan, cream and herbs in small bowl. Set aside.

Melt butter in large, heavy-bottomed skillet over low heat. Add onion and cook over low heat until tender.

Meanwhile place broth in medium saucepan and bring to boil. Turn heat to low and keep saucepan covered.

When onion is tender and transparent, add spinach to braising pan and stir until leaves are tender. Add rice and stir well until grains are coated and glossy.

Add enough broth to just cover rice and stir over low heat until broth is absorbed. Continue adding broth, few ladles at time, until rice is al dente (but not raw at center) and risotto is slightly soupy. Stir in remaining 4 tablespoons cheese. Taste to adjust for seasonings.

Remove risotto from heat and add herb-cream mixture. Mix well and cover. Let stand few minutes before serving. Sprinkle with extra Parmesan, if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 558 calories; 1,692 mg sodium; 48 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 79 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 0.97 gram fiber.

Garlicky sauteed spinach is topped with a very bright, anchovy-spiked tomato sauce. Sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan, it is briefly baked in the oven until the cheese melts. Serve this with grilled polenta slices for a satisfying main dish. The first two cookings of the spinach must be very brief since it cooks further in the oven.

SPINACH AND TOMATO AL FORNO WITH POLENTA 2 bunches spinach, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds Salt 1 cup canned whole, peeled tomatoes or fresh tomatoes 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped 3 anchovies, chopped 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese Grilled Polenta

Clean spinach thoroughly and place in very large skillet with just water that clings to leaves. Season to taste with salt. Cook, covered, over high heat, stirring often to make sure all leaves are exposed to heat. When leaves are just barely tender, drain well in colander and gently press out excess moisture with back of wooden spoon. Do not squeeze spinach dry. Spread leaves on surface of colander and allow to drain further.

Drain tomatoes and cut into small chunks.

Place butter and 1/2 of garlic in small saucepan. Cook over low heat few minutes. Add tomatoes. Raise to high heat and cook quickly, stirring frequently, until excess water evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add anchovies during final few moments of cooking and stir until dissolved into sauce. Taste to adjust for seasonings.

Place olive oil and remaining garlic in medium skillet. Cook over low heat few minutes. Add spinach and toss briefly in oil until leaves are glossy. Taste to adjust for seasonings.

Lightly oil small gratin dish. Spread spinach on bottom of dish. Top with tomato sauce. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup grated cheese. Bake at 450 degrees 8 to 10 minutes, or until cheese melts. Serve with slices of Grilled Polenta. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 193 calories; 436 mg sodium; 23 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 1.83 grams fiber.

Grilled Polenta 6 1/2 cups water 2 tablespoons salt 1 1/2 cups imported polenta or coarse yellow cornmeal Olive oil

Bring water to boil in large, heavy pot. Add salt. When water returns to boil, add polenta in thin, steady stream, constantly stirring with long wooden spoon.

When all polenta is added, reduce heat to medium and continue stirring 30 to 40 minutes, until polenta is thick and soft. Polenta is done when it pulls away from sides of pot.

Pour polenta into oiled small loaf pan. Set pan aside to cool at room temperature, then place in refrigerator until cold.

Heat charcoal or gas grill or cast-iron ridged griddle over high heat. Unmold polenta and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Lightly brush polenta with oil. Grill polenta slices 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until grill marks are evident. (Polenta slices may also be cooked quickly under hot broiler.) Transfer to paper towels to drain. Makes 4 to 6 servings.