In Ojai, a Bewitching Gift of Southern Exposure

Ojai, nestled in a little valley backed by the Topatopa and Sulphur mountains, takes it name from the Chumash word for nest.

More prosaic geologists call this part of Ventura County the Transverse Range Province. Mountains and valleys in these parts have been moved out of California’s usual north-south orientation into an east-west configuration.

This east-west positioning means a lot of sunshine, with early morning light and long, lingering sunsets. Southern California locales with a southern exposure--such as Ojai, Malibu and Santa Barbara--often seem bathed in a light that is almost bewitching.

Local hikers sometimes refer to the magic of an Ojai sunset as “the pink moment.” As the sun sets on Nordhoff Ridge, the rock takes on a pink luminescence that’s stunning.

Cozy Dell Trail enters Ojai from the northwest via a brisk ascent from California 33. The path leads to viewpoints that look out over the western Oaji Valley, then joins Foothill Trail for a grand tour of the hills above town.

On this hike, you’ll get great views of the harmonious Spanish architecture of Ojai, sweet-smelling citrus groves and the sometimes misty, sometimes mystical Ojai Valley.

Cozy Dell Trail isn’t quite as mellow as its name suggests. The first mile of trail is a vigorous climb through and above the dell.

Cozy Dell and the other footpaths in back of Ojai are in mediocre shape. The generous rains that so nurtured local flora wreaked havoc on the trail system. Expect some rough, eroded sections, as well as brush crowding the trail.

Directions to trail head: From the intersection of highways 150 and 33, a mile southwest of downtown Ojai, turn north on the latter route and drive 3 1/4 miles to the signed trail head for Cozy Dell Trail. Parking is on the left (west side) of the highway; the trail begins on the right.

The hike: The path, which begins on the right side of Cozy Dell Canyon, crosses and then soon re-crosses Cozy Dell Creek. After a time it climbs out of the canyon, leaving behind the pleasant murmur of the creek.

After a mile, Cozy Dell Trail tops a ridge and offers views of the western Ojai Valley. The path drops into and then climbs out of a ravine, then descends to a seasonal creek. The path crosses this creek and soon comes to a dirt road. Bear left and you’ll come to a signed junction with Pratt Trail to your left and Foothill Trail to your right.

Foothill Trail ascends east over wildflower-dotted meadowland. Just as you’re beginning to wonder if this trail will ever deliver a view, it tops a rise and offers a first glimpse of Ojai Valley.

The trail descends to an unsigned junction, where a connector trail leads north to Forest Road 5N11; this road heads east to Gridley Road but offers no valley views. Stay with Foothill Trail, which descends to a little seasonal creek, then climbs eastward out onto open slopes for great views of Ojai.

About half a mile from Gridley Road, you’ll spot the dirt Shelf Road 200 yards or so below Foothill Trail. Experienced bushwhackers can blaze a trail down to the road, but think twice--it’s probably more trouble than the little time and distance saved.

Foothill Trail, near its end, de scends more steeply, its route stabilized by railroad ties. The trail emerges at a crumbling asphalt road, which you’ll follow 50 yards to Gridley Road.

A left on Gridley Fire Road will bring you to Forest Road 5N11, which offers another, albeit less picturesque, way to return.

Hike with John McKinney’s “Walk Los Angeles: Adventures on the Urban Edge” ($14.95). Send check or money order to Los Angeles Times Syndicate, Dept. 1, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles 90053.