Fish School : Salmon: They’re Running

A trip around the grocery store will give you a quick look at many of the effects of this winter’s rain, but it would take a trip in a time machine to see its impact in the seafood section.

It will take three years, says Monterey Fish owner Paul Johnson, but 1996 could be a truly great year for California-caught wild king salmon, thanks to the rains of 1993. Because of the increased water flow, there should be a good salmon spawn this year and king salmon come to maturity in three to five years.

Back in the present, he says, the Pacific salmon season, which opened May 1, probably won’t be great. And, especially early in the season, the fish is likely to be lean. Poach it gently to protect its delicate flavor. The season runs through September and the later catches will be fatter and more fully flavored. That’s when you want to fire up the grill.

You might see the first of the Copper River salmon making their way to restaurant and retail outlets in Southern California this week. Caught off the Gulf of Alaska, Copper River salmon naturally produce high amounts of fat. The great majority of the fish go to Japan, where salmon draws a better price than in this country. That is particularly true with sockeye, which is treasured in Japan for its bright red flesh. Americans tend to prefer the more complex flavor of the kings.

The Copper River season opens May 17 and continues in three-day periods through the first of June, or until quotas are met. This year’s numbers have been set at 27,000 kings and 920,000 sockeye. Contrary to California fish, the first Copper River salmon generally are the highest in fat.

Other seasonal items in the fish market include yellowtail and tuna, which are still plentiful thanks to continuing warm water off Southern California.