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Encouraged by the popularity of his coffee...

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Encouraged by the popularity of his coffee house in Palos Verdes, Peter Barkhordar decided to open a restaurant. The result: Cafe Noir, now 3 years old and established as one of the stars in the burgeoning San Pedro restaurant scene.

Cafe Noir is decorated with black and dusty rose chairs, a

checkerboard floor, photographs of Paris and impressionistic posters. Outside are six umbrella-topped tables for alfresco dining. An open kitchen allows patrons to admire the work of the Austrian-born chef, Martin Hubmann.

The lunch menu, which changes seasonally, currently emphasizes lighter fare such as salads and fresh fruits. A popular choice is the fresh asparagus chicken salad ($7.95) with escarole, avocado, scallions and a cilantro vinaigrette. A famous specialty from Nice, salade Nicoise ($8.95), is a flavorful mix of French green beans, tomatoes, olives, garlic, hard-cooked eggs, grilled tuna and anchovies. Cold gazpacho soup ($4.45) swimming with grilled vegetables, is refreshing on a hot afternoon. A pizza ($6.95), big enough for two, is topped with smoked ham, Gorgonzola (an Italian blue cheese) and shiitake mushrooms.

Dinner appetizers include scampi ($7.95), sauteed with white wine, garlic, lemon and Spanish capers. A popular pasta dish is spaghetti ($8.95), simply made with olive oil, garlic, soy sauce, scallions and shiitake mushrooms.

For another entree, Hubmann presses a mixture of rosemary, garlic and Parmesan onto a succulent rack of lamb ($18.95) and serves it with tarragon-perfumed fettuccine.

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Considering that chef Hubmann learned his trade near Salzburg, Austria, it’s no surprise he offers a fine apple strudel, served with vanilla ice cream ($4.95).

Another good value is the three-course prix fixe served until 6 p.m. For $9.95, a recent such meal consisted of a small Caesar salad, sauteed whitefish in a lemon butter sauce with grilled vegetables and fruit with Brie cheese.

Cafe Noir is located at 28098 Western Ave., San Pedro. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Sunday. (310) 832-9860.

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