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If you’re in the vicinity of 4th...

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If you’re in the vicinity of 4th Street and Pacific Avenue in San Pedro, you may notice an alluring aroma wafting through the air. It’s the scent of one of the culinary world’s best duets--garlic sauteing in extra virgin olive oil--and it’s coming from the kitchen at the popular Raffaello Ristorante.

Owner Michele Curti traveled the world for 15 years as a maitre d’ for the Princess Cruise line before settling down in San Pedro. In 1990 he opened Raffaello’s with his brothers Tony and Gino. It’s pleasantly decorated with a color scheme dominated by light pink, down to the fresh pink carnations on the tables.

Shortly after you order, a complementary plate of bruschetta is brought to your table. It’s toasted bread topped with extra virgin olive oil, chopped tomatoes and lots of garlic, and a fine way to begin your meal.

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At lunch, 18 pasta preparations are listed. One of the most popular is the clean tasting capellini alla checca ($6.95), angel hair pasta with fresh basil, tomato and olive oil. A richer dish is the penne alla vodka ($7.50), straight tubes of macaroni with prosciutto, mushrooms and vodka in a tomato cream sauce.

My favorite dinner time appetizer here is the bresaola all’ agrodolce ($6.50), slices of air-dried filet mignon drizzled with olive oil and lemon. I enjoy looking at the beautiful, glistening crimson color of the thin beef slices.

Entree highlights include the polla alla ripieno ($13.95), a plump chicken breast stuffed with ham, spinach and mozzarella, and the osso buco ($18.50), nearly a pound of tender veal shanks in a rich brown sauce sweetened slightly by carrots. As with all entrees, it is accompanied by a side dish of vegetables and fettuccine with basil.

A few fresh fish specials are offered, perhaps a halibut sauteed with tomatoes, olives and capers ($9.50). A good pasta pick is the spaghetti alla carbonara ($9.95), which is made with eggs, bacon, and Parmesan cheese.

Raffaello Ristorante is at 400 S. Pacific Ave., San Pedro. (310) 514-0900. Open Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Monday through Thursday 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.

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