Although San Pedro has one of the...

Although San Pedro has one of the South Bay’s most diverse restaurant scenes, until recently it lacked a good rib restaurant. Now, with the arrival of Sugar’s 4 Ribs, that has changed.

The restaurant was opened six months ago by Dion Kelly, who is assisted by his parents, Roberta and Elbert.

It was Dion’s longshoreman grandfather who instilled barbecue fever in the family. Grandfather Kelly’s favorite way to relax after a long day on the docks was to come home and fire up the barbecue pit. Later, Dion’s father took over the ‘cueing duties and even won the Long Beach Blues Festival’s competition for best ribs in 1987 and 1988.

Now, it’s Dion’s turn. With a pedigree like that, it’s no wonder Sugar’s is turning out some good charcoal- and hickory log-fired barbecue.

Sugar’s 4 Ribs is fairly small--it seats 25--but comfortable and attractively decorated, with colorful reprints of scenes depicting African-American life. Recorded jazz and blues play softly as diners attempt to devour the heaping platters served by the friendly staff.

The most popular is the spare rib dinner ($7.95), which contains five or six tender pork ribs swathed in a slightly sweet sauce available hot or mild. Go for the hot--it’s not scorching, and it complements the hickory-infused ribs nicely.

Another good choice is the beef ribs ($7.95). These meaty ribs are big enough for Tyrannosaurus Rex to use as a toothpick. Once they’re licked clean, of course.

First-time customers curious to try everything can order Sugar’s Sampler ($10.95), which includes three baby back ribs, a breast of chicken, a hot link, a spare rib and a beef rib. All dinners come with thick-cut steak fries, cole slaw, barbecued beans and toast.

For small eaters, Sugar’s offers a special $4.95 dinner of spare ribs or baby back ribs or chicken, with fries and beverage.

Available side dishes ($1.25 each) include black-eyed peas, collard greens and potato salad.

Sugar’s 4 Ribs is at 806 S. Gaffey St., San Pedro. (310) 548-5771. Open noon to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, noon to 10 p.m. Friday, 3 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.