<i> Cuisine du </i> Truck

In France, bistros come and bistros go, but one French landmark remains constant--the truck stop or relais routier. Around noon and after 7 p.m., the articulated giants that roam the French highways shift gears and slow down for some good cooking. If you follow their lead, there’s no need to scout out a good, inexpensive restaurant--just count the trucks. The more there are, the better the food.

An archetypal relais routier flourishes just down the road from us on Route Nationale in Burgundy. Here, for less than $10, you will be offered a three-course menu with beverage, generous servings and plenty of choices. For instance, you might start with mushroom crepes, country pate, head cheese, pickled vegetables a la grecque , rice salad with surimi, eggs in mayonnaise, melons or globe artichokes, depending on the season.

Main courses range beyond the usual pork chop and quarter of roast chicken to tripe, chicken livers in red wine sauce and steak marchand de vin --we are, after all, in Burgundy. The choice of vegetables is equally eclectic, with green beans, spinach, green salad, ratatouille and three kinds of potatoes. Fish does well on Fridays--cod in sorrel sauce, perhaps, or fried skate with capers. I was happy to hear that chopped steak, offered as a concession to modernity, is a poor seller.

Relais routiers were created “to welcome professional drivers and provide excellent service at the best prices.” They are listed in their own publication, “ Guide des Relais Routiers ,” that details some 3,500 establishments throughout France. They cluster along main roads, often in obscure villages with such names as Deux Chaises and Dizy le Gros. Many offer modest rooms, but emphasis is on the food, served with efficiency and often a good deal of charm.

Our local relais in Villevallier (a village of 300 souls) has no name, but it boasts an art deco sideboard so large it had to be assembled on the spot. More than one interior designer has eyed it for a Parisian client, but all offers are refused. “Where else could I put my desserts!” says Madame Petit, la patronne.

One day recently she was displaying a choice of prune and custard tart, peach tart, chocolate mousse, caramelized semolina pudding, fresh fruit salad and a cheese board including Cantal, bleu d’Auvergne, a round of the regional cheese Soumaintrain and a log of goat cheese. Not bad!

*

As I looked around the room, I realized I was the only woman. Other tables had filled with cheerful, athletic-looking men of all ages and a dozen nationalities. An atmosphere of quiet bonhomie prevailed. Nowhere does the reality of the European Economic Community show more clearly than among drivers who routinely travel from Berlin to Bilbao, or Copenhagen to Cadiz. For companionship, those alone join the table d’hote, a large table in the center of the room seating a dozen or more people with all the conviviality of a London club, where the tradition also survives.

The backbone of the relais routiers business remains the truck driver, though superior establishments are cultivating a gastronomic image and are also looking toward vacationing families and adventurous tourists. Most menus are $15 or less, but for extra dollars a few offer such luxuries as game, seafood, fresh frog’s legs and duck confit. The best relais cooking, at prices up to $25 per meal, is marked in the “ Guide “ by a steaming casserole.

The typical relais remains a small family affair with the husband in the kitchen and the wife running the dining room. Help is local. Produce comes from the market and bread from the village baker.

*

Plentiful olive oil, lemon, herbs and a spicing of coriander add the Mediterranean touch to this first-course salad, which is best served at room temperature. A variety of vegetables such as zucchini, yellow squash or baby artichokes can be used; mushrooms and fennel are among my favorites. The flavor mellows if the vegetables are refrigerated one to two days before serving; bring to room temperature one hour before serving.

GREEK-STYLE MARINATED VEGETABLE SALAD

Marinated Mushrooms

Marinated Fennel

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

Transfer Marinated Mushrooms and Marinated Fennel to separate glass bowls. Just before serving, sprinkle Marinated Mushrooms with parsley and Marinated Fennel with tarragon. Makes 6 servings.

Marinated Mushrooms

1 pound mushrooms

1/4 cup olive oil

10 to 12 baby onions

1 bag Spice Mixture

3/4 pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 cup chicken stock or water

Juice 1 lemon

Salt, pepper

Trim mushroom stems level with caps and wipe caps with damp cloth.

Heat oil in skillet. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add 1 bag of spices along with mushrooms, tomatoes, garlic, stock, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are very tender and liquid has reduced to form thin sauce, 25 to 35 minutes. Let cool to tepid. Discard spice bag. Taste to adjust for seasonings.

*

Marinated Fennel

1 pound fennel bulbs

1/4 cup olive oil

10 to 12 baby onions

1 bag Spice Mixture

2 tablespoons dark raisins

1 1/2 cups chicken stock or water

1 cup dry white wine

Salt, pepper

Trim fennel stems and roots, discarding any tough outer pieces from bulbs. Cut bulbs lengthwise in half. Set each half, cut side down, on chopping board and slice lengthwise.

Heat oil in skillet. Add onions and saute, stirring occasionally, until brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Place 1 bag Spice Mixture in pan along with fennel, raisins, stock, wine and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until fennel is tender but still slightly crisp, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool to tepid. Discard spice bag. Taste to adjust for seasonings.

Spice Mixture

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

2 bay leaves

7 to 8 sprigs thyme

Mix coriander seeds, peppercorns, bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Divide mixture in 2 parts, wrap each in piece of cheesecloth and tie up.

*

Any firm white fish, such as mahi mahi or snapper, may be used for this recipe. When sorrel is not available, substitute equal parts watercress and spinach. Small, boiled new potatoes in their skins are the classic accompaniment.

COD IN SORREL SAUCE

2 pounds skinless cod fillets

Butter

1 cup dry white wine

Salt, pepper

Sorrel Sauce

Cut cod into 6 even-sized pieces and place in buttered medium baking dish. Pour wine over top. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover with buttered foil. Bake at 350 degrees until fish just flakes easily with fork, 20 to 25 minutes.

Transfer fish to plate with slotted spoon. Cover and keep warm. Reserve cooking liquid. Make Sorrel Sauce.

Arrange fish on 4 warmed individual plates. Spoon Sorrel Sauce over fish and serve. Makes 6 servings.

*

Sorrel Sauce

1/2 pound sorrel or 1/4 pound watercress and 1/4 pound spinach

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon flour

Cooking liquid from fish

1 cup whipping cream

Grated nutmeg

Salt, pepper

Discard stems from sorrel. Rinse leaves in several changes of water.

Melt butter in skillet. Add sorrel. Cook, covered, over low heat until sorrel is tender, about 2 minutes. Remove lid and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until sorrel forms thick puree, 1 to 2 minutes longer. If using spinach and watercress, cook until dry, then remove greens from skillet and chop finely. Stir flour into sorrel puree. Whisk reserved cooking liquid into puree and heat gently, stirring, until very hot. Stir in cream. Bring sauce just to boil.

Remove from heat. Season to taste with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Sauce should coat spoon generously. If too thick, thin with more cream.

*

An all-purpose tart, good also with dried apricots or fresh fruits such as plums, rhubarb and apples. If the fruit is juicy, omit the whipped cream. This tart is equally delicious the following day.

PRUNE AND CUSTARD TART

5 egg yolks

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons flour

1 cup milk

1 tablespoon brandy

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 (10-inch) tart or pie pastry shell

20 pitted prunes

Powdered sugar

Whisk 3 egg yolks and granulated sugar until thick and light, about 2 minutes. Whisk in cornstarch and flour until blended.

Pour milk into saucepan and bring to boil. Remove from heat and whisk into egg yolk mixture. Return custard to heat and cook, whisking constantly, until custard boils and thickens. Simmer, whisking constantly, about 2 minutes longer. Remove from heat and let cool.

When cool, stir in brandy and remaining 2 egg yolks. Whip cream until stiff and fold into custard.

Place tart shell on baking sheet and spoon in filling. Arrange prunes on top in concentric circles. Bake on lower oven rack at 350 degrees until filling is firm and golden and pastry is brown and starts pulling from sides of pan, 25 to 30 minutes. Dust with powdered sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 6 servings.