PARTY LINE : Snack and Sip

Paul Hofmann of San Dimas prefers to cook small--intimate dinner parties are his specialty. But more often than not, he winds up cooking large. As head of the Manner of Cookery catering business, Hofmann cooks for huge home parties, street fairs and other special events. At this fall’s Rancho Cucamonga Chamber of Commerce grape harvest festival, he cooked a load of French-Cajun dishes.

He even staged a big event of his own: an outdoor wine tasting and dinner for friends, family and members of his wine touring group. Two of Hofmann’s wine-touring friends, Ianthe and Warren Driver, loaned the grounds of their home in La Habra Heights for the party. Another friend, Kevin Lite, staged a vertical tasting of Cabernets. Tables were done up in grape-colored cloths and burgundy napkins--to fit the wine theme.

Guests snacked on Hofmann’s Romanian eggplant dip, won tons, spanakopita , stuffed mushrooms, a crab-and-shrimp dip with avocado, a Parmesan cheese-and-artichoke dip, several cheeses, a variety of sausages and a choice of mustards. Besides the Cabernets in the tasting, there were Korbel sparkling wines, Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Dinner was as generous and imaginative as the hors d’oeuvres. Pumpkin soup was followed by a yam-and-plantain salad, tomatoes with mozzarella and a sweet version of tabbouleh dotted with dates. The two main dishes were as opposite as could be: a classic French boeuf Bourguignonne and chicken in curry sauce with papaya and coconut.

“I try to mix various cuisines,” Hofmann says. “I’m not afraid to offer something a little new.”

There was hardly room on the plate to add stir-fried vegetables and orzo with pine nuts and mint. After eating all that, diners had to make a great effort to find room for two desserts: bread pudding with whiskey sauce and dark chocolate brownies.

Hofmann has no formal training in food service. “I learned to cook by watching my mother,” he says. A German and Czech background introduced him to dishes such as sauerbraten, potato pancakes, spatzle , stuffed cabbage and veal cutlets.

For years he worked as a financial analyst for Arco on the Alaska pipeline project. Eventually, he received the offer of a full-time post in Anchorage. But Hofmann wasn’t interested. Instead, he plunged into the catering business.

During the party, Hofmann, wearing a blue shirt with his company logo, passed trays of hors d’oeuvres and occasionally joined friends for a sip of wine, but he spent most of the time behind scenes preparing the food. The next day, Hofmann was still at work: “Six hours of nonstop cleanup,” he groaned.

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Here are a few of Hofmann’s recipes from the grape harvest party.

STUFFED MUSHROOMS

36 large mushrooms

1 onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup butter

1/2 cup parsley, chopped

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese

2 eggs, beaten

Salt, pepper

Marsala wine, optional

Rinse mushrooms and remove stems. With melon ball cutter, scoop out caps slightly to make deeper cavity. Add mushroom trimmings to coarsely chopped stems.

Saute onion and garlic in oil and butter in large skillet about 5 minutes. Add chopped stems and trimmings to onion mixture and cook about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add parsley, bread crumbs, cheese, eggs and salt and pepper to taste. If mixture appears too moist, add more crumbs.

Stuff mushroom caps with mixture. Place in well-buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with Marsala wine. Bake uncovered at 350 degrees 25 to 30 minutes, basting frequently. Makes 3 dozen.

Each mushroom contains about:

54 calories; 72 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.25 gram fiber.

SHRIMP-AND-CRAB DIP

1 avocado

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sour cream

2 green onions, chopped

2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

Lemon juice

Salt, pepper

1/2 pound shelled cooked baby shrimp

1/2 pound crab meat, flaked

Crackers or thin slices French bread, optional

Combine avocado, mayonnaise and sour cream in food processor and process until pureed. Place in bowl and add onions, horseradish and lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

Combine with shrimp and flaked crab meat. Taste and adjust seasonings. Accompany with crackers or thin slices French bread. Makes about 2 1/2 cups, 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

125 calories; 372 mg sodium; 58 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 0.49 gram fiber.

COCONUT CHICKEN

6 boneless chicken breast halves

Salt, pepper

3 eggs

2 tablespoons cow’s milk

2 to 2 1/2 cups packaged shredded coconut

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup minced onion

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1/4 cup butter

2 cups chopped papaya

1 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon curry powder, or to taste

1/3 cup whipping cream

1/3 cup coconut milk

Cut chicken breasts in half and season to taste with salt and pepper. Beat eggs with milk. Dip chicken in egg mixture, then in coconut, to coat thoroughly. Saute breasts in 2 to 3 tablespoons butter in heavy skillet until lightly browned, being careful not to burn coconut, about 3 minutes per side.

Arrange chicken in 1 layer in oven-proof dish. Bake at 350 degrees about 25 minutes, or until done. Cook onion and garlic in 1/4 cup butter in saucepan until translucent. Add 1 cup papaya, stock, wine and curry powder to taste. Simmer 10 minutes. Add cream and cook 5 minutes longer.

Puree mixture in food processor or blender. Add remaining papaya and coconut milk. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook 5 minutes, until heated through. Pour over chicken and serve. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

639 calories; 506 mg sodium; 243 mg cholesterol; 46 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 35 grams protein; 1.40 grams fiber.

BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING

2 cups soft bread cubes (about 5 slices sandwich bread)

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup raisins

1/2 cup butter, melted

2 eggs, separated

2/3 cup milk

Half and half, optional

Combine bread cubes, sugar and raisins in bowl. Add butter and toss lightly. Beat egg yolks with milk and pour over bread mixture. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into pudding.

Spoon mixture into 5-cup baking dish or souffle dish. Bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes. Serve with half and half or whiskey sauce, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

482 calories; 446 mg sodium; 172 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 54 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.24 gram fiber.