THE WINE LIST

Reed’s small (31-wine) list is top-heavy in wines from new, small producers offering wines of high quality at reasonable prices.

Wine lovers may know a few of the selections here, such as the Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer of Navarro and the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of Au Bon Climat, but after that the names become obscure, even to wine columnists.

Try the 1991 Thomas Hsi Chardonnay, $33, the enticing 1992 Viognier from Alban, $45, or the 1991 Zinfandel from Franus, $24, and it’s an education. The staff helps with tips on what goes with which foods, and service is excellent.

Intriguing offerings include 1990 Gunderloch Sylvaner, $15 and 1991 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains from Meo Camuzet, $26. The best wine to match with a variety of foods is 1989 Handley Brut Rose sparkling wine, $29.