Trendy Toward Status Giving Way to Wide Appeal : Year-round supplies, along with promotion and plentiful distribution, contribute to the success of the kiwi.

Once a trendy garnish on the restaurant scene, the unassuming kiwi fruit has evolved beyond its early ‘80s “exotic” appellation and is continuing on a path to becoming a supermarket staple.

Year-round supplies, combined with promotion and plentiful distribution, have all contributed to the success of this New Zealand import. But the unique flavor of its emerald green flesh may be the chief reason that consumers have grown to fancy the kiwi. The tart-sweet flesh imparts a taste completely its own, combining flavors of citrus, strawberry and melon.

Generally eaten out of hand--sliced in half and scooped with a spoon--kiwi fruit is commonly used to embellish tossed salads, fresh fruit mixes and compotes.

Currently, fanciers aren’t having any problem finding high-quality kiwi.

The Sacramento-based California Kiwifruit Commission reports California growers have recently harvested their second largest crop ever. The expected result of such a bounty: grocery stores and other markets are well-stocked with kiwis and prices are remaining moderate.

“We think retail prices will be maintained at about three to five pieces of fruit for a dollar,” commission President Mark Houston said.

Only a negligible amount of the vine-grown fruit is raised in Ventura County; the state’s largest growing regions are north of Sacramento and Kern County in the central San Joaquin Valley.

The egg-shaped kiwi is harvested by hand for a three-week period in October. From the field, the fruit is run through automated machinery to gently brush away a furry covering, then immediately placed in cold storage for at least two weeks to prolong firmness and halt the ripening process.

California kiwi supplies generally last through May. Fruit from overseas then commandeers the market.

Karen Wetzel, manager of the Ventura County Farmers’ Market--with markets in Thousand Oaks, Ventura and Santa Clarita--said farmers are traveling in from the Bakersfield and Pismo Beach areas, including Jerry Oviatt, who farms 2 1/2 acres in Upper Ojai. And Ruth Bernstein, manager of the Oxnard farmers’ market, said she too has kiwi fruit coming in from central California.

Unless you find a grocery store with kiwi as an advertised special, the farmers’ markets may be your best buy. Oviatt, for instance, sells medium-sized kiwi 12 for $1, king-size six for $1.

Although kiwi is becoming more of a household name, Oviatt finds consumer education is a never-ending task. Despite the fruit’s fuzzy covering, Oviatt said “a lot of people see them and they think I have potatoes.”

And so Oviatt sets out each Saturday for the Ventura farmers’ market with education in mind and the prospects of an ever-expanding kiwi market.

“Only about 10% of the homes in the nation use kiwis regularly,” he said. “The potential is tremendous.”

Besides eating them fresh out of hand, Oviatt suggested juicing and kiwi jam recipes:

Juicing: Using a juicer, include five medium-sized apples, two kiwis (peels need not be removed) and one banana.

Jam: Using a low-sugar pectin, simply follow the strawberry recipe that’s on the box. “If you use one-third less sugar, it’s not as sweet and it gives you more of a fruit flavor,” he said.

Because kiwi fruit is shipped from the packinghouse still plenty firm, you will probably need to ripen your purchase. To speed up the process, place the kiwi in a brown bag with a banana or apple and leave at room temperature for one to three days. The fruit ideally should be slightly soft to the touch. Store your supply in the refrigerator for up to four weeks.

Writer and eater Rodney Bosch contributes a bimonthly column to Ventura County Life. You can write to him at 5200 Valentine Road, Suite 140, Ventura 93003, or send faxes to 658-5576.

Details

* ETC: The California Kiwifruit Commission has complimentary recipes it will send you, including suggestions for baking, desserts, sauces and more. Send a self-addressed envelope to California Kiwifruit Commission, 1540 River Park Drive, Suite 110, Sacramento CA 95815-4608.

* FYI: The Saturday farmers’ market in downtown Ventura will be closed for the holiday season Saturday and Jan. 1. The market will reopen Jan. 8 at its regular hours, 8:30 a.m. to noon.