Do the Lobster Thing

New Year’s Eve is my favorite night for entertaining. However, rather than hosting a large party with a crowd of revelers, my husband and I decided long ago that we liked sharing this holiday with a small circle of close friends. So, since the ‘80s we have been welcoming each New Year by cooking a special meal with the same group.

The ritual is always the same. As the hosts, we are responsible for the table setting and the opening course plus the entree. Others prepare appetizers, side dishes and desserts. The food is sumptuous since we indulge ourselves, forgetting about calories and fat grams for this occasion.

This Dec. 31, our festivities will begin with slices of bruschetta topped with sauteed wild mushrooms. For the first course there’ll be risotto with lobster and snow peas. Garlic-studded baby lamb chops served on a bed of zucchini, yellow squash and sweet red peppers will follow, and a grape sorbet served with amaretto cookies and espresso will end the feast.

The risotto will be one of my contributions. Italian-style arborio rice (which has short, fat grains and a high starch content) is sauteed along with shallots in butter. Then simmering chicken stock is gradually stirred into the mixture, a little at a time. When the rice is creamy but still firm, seasonings of lemon juice and zest, pieces of cooked lobster and snow peas are added.

The rice may be made ahead up to where the seafood and vegetables are incorporated. One large 1 1/2-pound lobster will suffice for a single recipe, which serves four to five people as a first course. The recipe can be doubled, if desired.

RISOTTO WITH LOBSTER AND SNOW PEAS

1 (1 1/2-pound) live lobster

Salt

3 1/2 to 4 cups chicken stock

2 to 3 ounces snow peas, trimmed on diagonal and halved

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup finely chopped shallots

1 1/2 cups arborio rice

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/3 cup grated imported Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons chopped parsley, preferably flat-leaf parsley

To cook lobster, bring about 4 quarts water to boil and add 1 tablespoon salt and lobster. When water returns to boil, start timing. Lobster should take 12 to 14 minutes to cook. Remove lobster. When cool enough to handle, crack claws and split tail and remove meat. Cut meat into 1-inch chunks. Set aside. (Meat may be cooked day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before using.)

Place chicken stock in saucepan and set over medium heat. Bring to simmer. Lower heat and keep at simmer. Add snow peas and cook just until color is set, about 2 minutes. Remove snow peas with slotted spoon and set aside. Let stock remain simmering.

Heat butter in large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring until tender, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat with butter. Add wine and stir until completely absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add 1/2 cup simmering stock, stirring constantly with wooden spoon. Cook until all liquid has been absorbed. Continue stirring stock in 1/2-cup amounts, making certain each addition is completely absorbed before adding next. (Stir rice constantly while cooking so it does not stick.)

When done in 15 to 20 minutes, rice should be creamy, not mushy, and still have firmness. You may not need to add last 1/2 cup stock. Stir in cheese, lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Rice may be made several hours ahead to this point. Cool, cover and leave at cool room temperature.)

When ready to serve, reheat rice over medium heat, stirring constantly. Add little more stock, if rice seems too dry. When rice is warm, stir in lobster, snow peas and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, if desired. Serve rice immediately in warmed soup dishes. Makes 4 to 5 servings as first course.