THE WINE LIST

Florian breaks just about all the rules for wine lists, making it extremely difficult for the average diner to find any comfort.

1. Pricing. Florian uses the same tired old formula that results in too-high prices, making ordinary Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio an absurd $40 a bottle.

2. Staff knowledge. About 1988 Castelgreve Chianti Classico Riserva, $32, I asked, “What do you know about this wine?” The waitress said, “It’s a dry wine. Ask those two people over there, they’re drinking it.”

3. Storage. Many of the red wines were stored upright on a partition, subject to variances in restaurant temperature.

4. Serving temperature. The red wine was warm. The white wine was so cold I thought it had been placed in cryogenic suspension.

5. Vintages. None is listed on the white wines, which could make a huge difference.

Solutions:

1. Order the safe St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc, $18, or 1991 Dry Creek Zinfandel, $23.

2. Pay the $12 corkage and bring your own bottle.

3. Don’t order wine.