Filo: Wrap ‘n’ Roll

June entertaining--showers, graduations, weddings--makes individual hors d’oeuvres somehow relevant. Typically, they are very labor-intensive, and they don’t fit the informal style of sitting around the dinner table with friends.

But little bites can go a long way when you’ve got a crowd on your hands. And you can save on plates since a decorative paper napkin is all your guests need.

For literally wrapping up your hors d’oeuvres I looked to filo dough, the tissue-thin sheets of pastry that are best purchased fresh at Greek markets but are also available frozen in supermarkets. Once you get into the rhythm of using filo, it pays to make several varieties of hors d’oeuvres.

Filo-wrapped bites can be frozen in advance--bake them at serving time and serve them warm.

Use an egg-white mixture between the filo layers instead of the usual melted butter. This cuts down on fat and gives you hors d’oeuvres that are crisper, far easier to cut (less flaking) than those brushed with butter. Add minced garlic, fresh ginger or herbs to the egg white to boost the flavor.

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Usually, a spinach - feta combination is folded into packets. These cylinders are much easier to make--and very easy to eat.

SPINACH FETA ROLLS 1/2 tablespoon olive oil 1/4 cup minced red onion 1 (10-ounce) package frozen spinach, thawed 2 small cloves garlic, minced 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped orange zest 1/8 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about 3/4 cup) 1/4 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper 1 large egg white 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 sheets filo, thawed

Heat olive oil over medium heat in large skillet. Saute onion until tender, about 2 minutes. Add spinach and half of garlic. Cook until spinach is almost but not quite dry, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Put in large bowl to cool.

When cool, mix in orange zest, rosemary, feta, salt and pepper to taste. Can be made to this point several hours in advance and refrigerated.

For strudel, whisk together egg white, olive oil and remaining garlic in small bowl. Lay 1 sheet of plastic wrap that is 4 inches longer than filo on work surface. Lay 1 sheet of filo on plastic wrap and cover remaining sheets with damp towel so they don’t dry out. Brush filo sheet with egg-white mixture. Cover with another sheet of filo, brush with mixture and continue layering in this manner with other 2 sheets.

Arrange spinach-feta filling in 2-inch-wide row down long side of filo. Using plastic wrap to help you, make 1 turn of filo. Tuck under end of filo, straighten roll, then finish rolling up into compact roll. Cut in half. Brush with egg-white mixture. Can be baked immediately or frozen up to 2 months, wrapped airtight. Do not thaw before baking.

Place strudel on lightly greased baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees on center rack until golden, about 18 to 20 minutes (slightly longer if frozen). Transfer to cooling rack. Use serrated knife to cut strudel at angle into 1-inch-wide slices. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature. Makes 16 (1-inch) appetizers.

Each serving contains about: 47 calories; 131 mg sodium; 5 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.18 grams fiber.

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In the style of the ever-popular Reuben, this filo appetizer uses Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and mustard. But instead of corned beef, there’s smoked turkey.

SMOKED TURKEY REUBEN STRUDEL 1/2 cup shredded Swiss cheese 1/2 medium onion, minced 3 tablespoons light mayonnaise 1/2 cup plus 1 1/4 teaspoons Dijon mustard Freshly ground pepper 1 cup packed sauerkraut, rinsed, patted dry with paper towels 3 ounces sliced smoked turkey, finely chopped Salt 1 large egg white 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 sheets filo, thawed

Combine cheese, onion, mayonnaise, 1 1/4 teaspoons mustard and pepper to taste in 1-quart bowl. Stir in sauerkraut and smoked turkey until well combined. Season to taste with salt. Can be made to this point several hours in advance and refrigerated.

For strudel, whisk egg white and oil together in small bowl. Lay 1 sheet of plastic wrap that is 4 inches longer than filo on work surface. Lay 1 sheet of filo on plastic wrap and cover remaining sheets with damp towel so they don’t dry out. Brush filo with egg-white mixture. Cover with another sheet of filo, brush with egg-white mixture and continue layering in this manner with other 2 sheets.

Arrange Reuben filling in 2-inch-wide row down long side of filo. Using plastic wrap to help you, make one turn of filo. Tuck under end of filo, straighten roll, then finish rolling up into compact roll. Cut in half. Brush with egg-white mixture. Can be baked immediately or refrigerated several hours or frozen up to 2 months, wrapped airtight. Do not thaw before baking. Place unwrapped strudel on lightly greased baking sheet.

Bake at 375 degrees on center rack until golden, about 18 to 20 minutes (slightly longer if frozen). Transfer to cooling rack. Use serrated knife or kitchen shears to cut strudel at angle into 1-inch-wide slices. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature, with remaining 1/2 cup Dijon mustard served separately for dipping. Makes about 16 (1-inch) appetizers.

Each appetizer, without Dijon dipping mustard, contains about: 61 calories; 178 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.17 grams fiber.

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Warm goat cheese tartlets with salsa are a great variation on the strudel. The filo is shaped in little muffin tins in advance, then baked at the last minute.

WARM GOAT CHEESE TARTLETS WITH SALSA 1 large egg white 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large clove garlic, minced 3 sheets filo dough, thawed 2 ounces goat cheese Basic Tomato Salsa

Whisk together egg white, olive oil and garlic in small bowl.

Lay 1 sheet of plastic wrap slightly larger than filo on work surface. Lay 1 sheet filo on plastic wrap and cover remaining sheets with damp towel so they don’t dry out. Brush filo lightly with egg-white mixture. Cover with another sheet of filo, brush with egg-white mixture and continue layering in this manner with other 2 sheets.

Using kitchen shears or very sharp small knife, cut 12 (3-inch) squares out of filo. Using plastic wrap to help you, lift up 1 square at time and put inside lightly greased muffin cup, tucking in to form cup with edges sticking up. Brush edges with egg-white mixture. Can be baked immediately or made to this point and frozen up to 2 months, wrapped airtight. Do not thaw before baking.

Bake at 325 degrees on center rack until golden, about 8 to 10 minutes or slightly longer if frozen. Let cool briefly in pan before filling.

Place 1 teaspoon goat cheese in each cooled cup. Bake at 325 degrees until goat cheese is warmed, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove filo cups from oven. Place 1 teaspoon Basic Tomato Salsa, drained of excess liquid, in each warm cup. Serve immediately. Makes 12 appetizer tartlets.

Each tartlet contains about: 42 calories; 90 mg sodium; 2.17 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.08 grams fiber.

Basic Tomato Salsa 1 medium tomato, juiced, seeded and diced 1 green onion, minced 1 tablespoon minced cilantro 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon balsamic vinegar Freshly ground pepper Dash cayenne

Place tomato, green onion, cilantro, salt, balsamic vinegar, pepper and cayenne to taste in small bowl. Mix well.