How Many Courses Does It Take to Earn a Diploma? 20

Citrus’ Michel Richard is taking on San Francisco with the launch of Bistro M in the new Milano Hotel Monday, and Bay Area French chefs are preparing to meet the challenge. In fact, one of San Francisco’s best, Alain Rondelli, has countered with an incredible 20-course tasting menu at his eponymous Clement Street restaurant. The Paris-born chef, who once cooked for the former French President Valery Giscard d’Estaing and spent six years as sous-chef to three-star Michelin-rated Marc Meneau in Burgundy, insists that Richard’s arrival on the scene has nothing to do with his new format at the modest restaurant.

“I’m happy for Michel. He’s a sweetheart and deserves to be successful in San Francisco. What I cook is very particular to me. I do great food, but I know I can go further and do better. And that’s why I want to do this 20-course menu.”

The prix-fixe menu, available three nights a week beginning mid-August, requires a two-day advance notice and is available only to parties of four or more at $150 per person--and that’s excluding tax, tip and wine. Although Rondelli won’t be serving his signature tripe dish, he has other delicacies planned in lieu of the slow-cooked cow intestines. “I’ll have some marrow, some ham hocks, squab, lobster. There will be two or three cold appetizers, two or three hot, two or three fish dishes, three or four meat courses, one or two vegetables and three desserts.”

Each customer who manages to finish the five-hour marathon meal will be presented with a diploma. “I want to educate my customers about my culture,” says Rondelli. “Part of being French is spending time at the table talking and eating. Here everybody is in a hurry.”

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ROCK CRUMBLES: Hans Rockenwagner and the Kimpton Group have parted company and the chef is no longer affiliated with Rox, the restaurant the San Francisco-based hotel and restaurant management company launched last year in the 140-room Beverly Prescott Hotel adjacent to Beverly Hills. Named for the chef, Rockenwagner was only its consultant and has no stake in the restaurant.

“The Kimpton Group asked me to run the restaurant and I’ve done that throughout the year,” says Rockenwagner, who owns the California-eclectic restaurant that bears his name as well as the sandwich shop Rock and Rolls--both in Santa Monica. “But I’m happy with the way things are now. I’m finishing up with a big smile and that’s really all I can say.”

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VERBATIM: “Peninsula Beverly Hills Hotel announces the opening of its newest restaurant, the Roof Garden Dining Terrace, where the sophisticated informality of both the food and the fifth-floor setting far exceed expectations of outdoor dining in Southern California.

”. . . Through its deliberately small size, the 42-seat restaurant exudes an air of intimacy and exclusivity. Surrounded by large potted plants, the open-air dining area is casual and comfortable and patrons are shaded by oversized sand-colored Bahama umbrellas imported from Germany--’the BMW of umbrellas.’ ”

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MORE OPENINGS: Capri Cafe & Bar has opened in the Baldwin Park Marriott. The Mediterranean menu features entrees in the $8.50 to $15.50 range. . . . National Sports Grill plans to open another branch in Santa Ana in September. Similar to the original in Buena Park, the new location will feature large portions of American cuisine, 35 brands of beer, 50 television monitors, three satellite dishes, a dozen tournament-sized pool tables and NTN, an interactive electronic game that pits patrons against players in other restaurants across the country.

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CLOSING: Los Angeles diners will have to find someplace else to dine on cheese fondue now that Andreas Tessi, the former publisher of the Epicurean Rendezvous restaurant guide, has quietly closed Andreas, the French-Swiss bistro he opened 18 months ago on Melrose.

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HAPPY ANNIVERSARY: Warszawa in Santa Monica is celebrating its 15th anniversary by offering a special three-course dinner Monday through Wednesday. At the area’s only Polish restaurant, for $14.50 customers can choose from 10 entrees including salmon mousse kolduny (tiny dumplings) and pierogi (Polish ravioli) with mushrooms.

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STOCKPOT: Pacific Dining Car now offers a magic show on Friday evenings. Who knows, maybe magician Jim Warren will be able to make the fat grams disappear from the thick prime beef served at the venerable downtown steakhouse. . . . The Bicycle Shop Cafe in West L.A. now serves bouillabaisse for $15.50 every Friday and Saturday from 5 to midnight.