NEIGHBORHOOD EATERY : New Identity, Same Soul

“I was on the outside looking in,” says Bill McCreary, owner of the M & W Soul Food Restaurant in Gardena. He literally was. As the owner of a cleaning business, twice a month he would be outside what was then named the M & M, washing the windows and looking in at people enjoying Mississippi-style cooking.

Then the manager told McCreary that the company was not going to renew the lease (there’s still an M & M Restaurant in Gardena, though, and other branches in Carson, Inglewood and South-Central Los Angeles). McCreary stepped in and took the place over. Now McCreary, who used to get $25 a month to clean the place, is signing the paychecks.

Renamed M & W (the W representing McCreary’s late partner, Ralph Williams), the restaurant opened in May with new booths, paint and lighting. However, customers of the old M & M will be glad to know little has changed in terms of personnel. Chef Joan Martin, for instance, started at the original M & M at 95th Street and Avalon Boulevard 18 years ago. The most popular item here is the short rib dinner ($9.99), beef short ribs baked for 2 1/2 hours and awash in gravy. Diners can select any three from a list of 13 side dishes; a popular choice is dressing, macaroni and cheese and candied yams.

Fried chicken ($6.99) is available three ways: all white meat, all dark, or mixed ($1 extra). Another favorite is the fried catfish and red snapper ($9.99), which can be ordered baked or broiled.

To celebrate its reopening, the restaurant will be open for 24 hours on Sept. 9, 10 and 11.

* M & W is at 2222 Rosecrans Ave., Gardena. (310) 323-0417. Open Sunday through Thursday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.