A Taverna Dionysius Would Love

Papadakis Taverna is one of those restaurants that become more than mere places to eat. If the owners of this San Pedro landmark ever considered closing it down, there probably would be “Save the Taverna” demonstrations.

John and Donna Papadakis opened their restaurant in 1973, fresh from their honeymoon in Athens. Today, with its large main dining room plus four elegant private rooms behind the kitchen, it’s particularly known for having a warm and entertaining staff (at intervals during dinner they break into Greek folk dances) and for encouraging the boisterous Greek habit of breaking glassware and crockery.

A typical anecdote: One recent Wednesday, a 4-year-old boy was crying at his table, his parents unable to calm him. John Papadakis told the boy, “Come on, let’s have some fun” and led him to the front of the dining room, where the two of them proceeded to smash wine glasses. The boy entered into the proceedings with glee and in the end returned to his table in triumph, carried by Papadakis high above the clapping crowd.

Of course, the restaurant could not survive if it weren’t for the quality of the food. A look at the tray of meat and fish the waiter brings around before taking your order should assure you that this place hasn’t survived on broken plates and glasses alone. An impressively thick white veal chop ($29.95) is charbroiled with fresh thyme and oregano. Swordfish ($24.95) is grilled with lemon, mint, bay leaves and oregano. One of the most popular originals here is arni a la Papadakis ($26.95), a saddle of lamb (the very tender cut of unseparated tenderloin) sauteed in extra-virgin Greek olive oil, red wine and mushrooms, then wrapped in bacon and phyllo dough and baked.

Entrees are not inexpensive, but they come with plenty of side dishes: a creamy carp roe dip, a yogurt dip with cucumbers and dill, soup, salad, two vegetables and potatoes. Plus, you can start with one of 20 interesting appetizers, including giant butterflied shrimp with feta and tomatoes ($8) or the popular flaming kasseri cheese ($6.50).

Papadakis Taverna is at 301 W. 6th St., San Pedro. (310) 548-1186. Open daily 5 to 10 p.m.