A Victory for the Palate

In 1800, Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops rallied valiantly against the Austrians and turned the battle of Marengo from defeat into victory. It was a major turning point in Napoleon’s career.

In 1974, Valerie and George Tribelhorn decided it was time for their own Marengo. The two--both members of the Napoleonic Society of America, as it happened--had been involved with a large corporate restaurant operation but longed for something more personal. In honor of their hero, they opened Marengo, a French restaurant in Hillside Village in Torrance.

George has since passed on, but Valerie continues to command Marengo. The restaurant is dotted with tributes to Bonaparte: busts of the Little General, a copy of Jacques-Louis David’s painting “Napoleon Crossing the St. Bernard Pass,” muskets and swords on the walls, coats of arms hanging from the rafters. The main dining room is festively made up like a tent, with blue and white drapery swagged to form the ceiling. Just the spot to celebrate a major triumph.

When dining here, pay attention to the daily specials--a list almost as long as the regular menu. Some recent highlights included Prince Edward Island black mussels steamed with shallots, parsley, chives, cream and white wine. Sauteed shrimp are given an Asian touch with ginger, sesame seeds and tamari , a thick soy sauce. Fresh shiitake mushrooms are sauteed with butter, garlic and parsley, while shrimp ravioli come in a lobster sauce (all $8.95 each).

Off the menu, there are old-time classics such as canard a l’orange ($18); ris de veau Richelieu--sweet breads braised in a sherry cream sauce ($17), and tournedos a la Beaugency, tenderloin of beef topped with an artichoke heart and bearnaise sauce ($18).

Chicken Marengo ($13.75), the dish created after that battle, is naturally a favorite here: a half chicken sauteed in olive oil with onions, mushrooms, herbs, tomatoes and white wine.

Marengo is at 24594 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance. (310) 378-1174. Open 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, 5 to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.