Toffee Talk

I came across all sorts of toffee recipes while researching this column. Still, we had barely finished taking the step-by-step photos for toffee I when I was introduced to toffee II, a variation I think tops them all.

The common denominator in toffee recipes is butter, which gives the candy its very rich flavor. Margarine should not be substituted.

Sugar is always called for, but the type can vary--granulated or brown. Some recipes incorporate nuts. Many are topped with a layer of chocolate and sprinkling of finely chopped nuts.

A heavy saucepan and a candy thermometer must be used when making any toffee. The pan ensures even heat; the thermometer lets you know when the candy mixture is cooked to the proper point.

When making toffee, particularly toffee II, measure all the ingredients ahead so they’ll be ready when you need them. Butter either the pan or baking sheet in advance too.

Toffee I is the easier of the recipes. Once the butter is melted, you stir in the sugar and cream (Step 1).

Cook the mixture, barely stirring, until the thermometer registers 280 degrees (Step 2). At this temperature, when a small amount of the candy is dropped into ice water, it should separate into firm, but not brittle strands (Step 3).

Stir in the vanilla, then pour the cooked candy into the prepared pan (Step 4). We used an 8-inch-square pan. You can also use a 9-inch pan, but it will give you a slightly thinner candy.

After the candy cools for about 10 minutes, use a sharp knife to score it into squares (Step 5).

Once thoroughly cooled, the candy should be turned out onto a sheet of wax paper and spread with melted chocolate (Step 6). Sprinkle with finely chopped nuts (Step 7) and refrigerate until the chocolate firms.

You may need to tap this candy with the handle of a knife to break it into pieces (Step 8). Toffee II is spread much thinner and breaks more easily.

The first time I made this second type of toffee, it bombed. I had the temperature too high after adding the almonds, and the mixture separated. I’ve since learned to reduce the heat at this point so the candy cooks more slowly.

Sprinkling the chocolate pieces onto the hot candy saves melting the pieces in a separate pan or in the microwave oven. In seconds the pieces are soft enough to spread and top with the nuts.

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The closing instructions to the toffee II recipe from Alicia Atlee say, “when chilled and hard, wrap for friends. Do not eat it yourself!” Sure.

TOFFEE I

1 cup butter

2 cups brown sugar, firmly packed

1/4 cup half and half

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate pieces

Finely chopped pecans

Melt butter over medium heat in large, heavy saucepan. Stir in sugar and half and half.

Heat, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves. Insert candy thermometer into mixture, being carefully not to touch bottom of pan. Continue cooking until thermometer reaches 280 degrees, moving wooden spoon across bottom of pan occasionally, but not stirring.

Remove pan from heat. When bubbling subsides, add vanilla, stirring just enough to blend.

Pour into well-buttered 8- or 9-inch square baking pan. Cool 10 minutes, then use sharp knife to score into squares.

Cool to room temperature. Turn out onto wax paper. Melt chocolate pieces and spread onto candy. Sprinkle with finely chopped pecans.

Refrigerate candy until firm. Break into pieces. Store airtight. Makes about 1 pound.

Each 1-ounce serving contains about:

202 calories; 125 mg sodium; 32 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

TOFFEE II

2/3 cup butter

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup water

1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup chopped blanched almonds

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate pieces

Finely chopped pecans

Place butter, sugar, water and salt in large, heavy saucepan. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture comes to boil.

Insert candy thermometer into mixture, being carefully not to touch bottom of pan. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue cooking, without stirring, until thermometer reaches 236 degrees.

Add almonds and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until mixture reaches 290 degrees. Color will change from beige to tan.

Remove pan from heat. Stir in soda.

Pour mixture onto buttered baking sheet, spreading as thin as possible without tearing. Sprinkle chocolate pieces over hot candy. After few seconds, spread chocolate with rubber scraper to form thin coating. Sprinkle with chopped pecans.

Refrigerate candy until firm. Break into pieces. Store airtight. Makes about 1/2 pound.

Each 1-ounce serving contains about:

307 calories; 305 mg sodium; 41 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.27 gram fiber.