Holiday Head Start

Here’s a strategy for a stress-free holiday cocktail party: Make a few foods that will establish the style of your party, and complete the menu with things that are easily available in markets.

Take the three finger-food recipes that follow. They’re tasty and attractive--and they can be made ahead and frozen. They aren’t even hard to make. Once you’ve done the shopping (one calls for frozen puff pastry), cooking takes far less time than you’d imagine.

To round out the selection, you might add shrimp, raw vegetables with a dip, assorted cheeses and crackers, smoked salmon (with sour cream, capers, minced onions and toast), bowls of mixed nuts, tortilla chips with salsa.

Decentralize the food service so that there’s little crowding and standing in line. Have plenty of assorted beverages, glasses, napkins and plates.

BASIL TWISTS

1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed according to package instructions

Flour

1 large egg

Salt

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

16 to 24 large basil leaves, washed and patted dry

Freshly ground pepper

Roll puff pastry on floured surface into 14x10-inch rectangle. Cut in half lengthwise. Brush off excess flour.

Whisk egg with 1/2 teaspoon salt to make glaze. Lightly brush each half of puff pastry with glaze. Spread one half with mustard. Arrange basil leaves in single layer to cover (remove tough veins from mature, very large leaves). Sprinkle generously with pepper to taste. Top with second half of puff pastry, egg side down. Roll rectangle to seal.

Brush off excess flour on both sides. Starting on short side of dough, use kitchen shears or very sharp knife to cut 24 (1/2-inch-wide) strips (use ruler to make job easier). Twist each strip 3 times. Place single layer on greased baking sheets. Lightly brush each with egg mixture. Lightly, but evenly, sprinkle twists with salt to taste.

Bake at 400 degrees until browned, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove to wire rack to cool. Twists can be made 2 days ahead and stored at room temperature or frozen for as long as 1 month, wrapped airtight.

Reheat to serve. Place in single layer on baking sheet and bake at 300 degrees until sizzling, about 10 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

Makes 24 twists.

Each twist contains about:

37 calories; 122 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0 fiber.

MINI PISSALADIERES NICOISES

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large red onion, diced

2 tablespoons water

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can chunky tomatoes

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Dash cloves

1/8 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1/2 pound packaged frozen bread dough, thawed

1 (2-ounce) can flat anchovies in oil, drained, gently rinsed, blotted dry, cut into thirds

8 Nicoise olives, pitted, flesh quartered

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add onion. Cook, stirring often, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add water. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat until onion is cooked and soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. Stir often to prevent burning.

Drain canned tomatoes, reserving liquid. To onion, add tomatoes along with 2 tablespoons reserved liquid, lemon juice, cloves, salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat until mixture is thick and liquid has evaporated, about 7 minutes. Stir in garlic. Remove from heat. You should have 2 cups. Cool to room temperature.

While tomato mixture is cooking, divide chilled but thawed dough in half. Refrigerate one half while rolling other. Roll on lightly floured board until 1/8-inch thick. If dough shrinks back, let it relax for 1 minute and try again. Pierce surface with fork. Use 1 1/2-inch diameter cookie cutter (or jar or glass) to cut dough into rounds. Gather scraps together, roll out and cut more rounds. Repeat with other half.

Spoon cool tomato mixture on rounds, using 3/4 teaspoon for each. Neaten mixture with fingers and lightly compress. Garnish half with anchovies, other half with olives, rounded side up.

Bake on greased baking sheet at 425 degrees until dark brown on bottom, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Evenly dribble remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil over pizzas. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature. Can be made ahead and frozen up to 1 month, wrapped airtight.

Makes about 12 to 14 servings.

Each serving contains about:

94 calories; 440 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.