Feasting for Kwanzaa

Kwanzaa celebrations are in full swing, but the best day is yet to come. For it’s the sixth day, Dec. 31, of the seven-day holiday, when the Karamu, or feast, is held.

“In addition to food,” writes Eric Copage in his cookbook, “Kwanzaa: An African-American Celebration of Culture and Cooking” (Morrow), “the Karamu is an opportunity for a confetti storm of cultural expression: dance and music, readings, remembrances.”

Kwanzaa, a truly American-born holiday, was created in 1965 by Maulana Karenga, black studies chair at Cal State Long Beach. A candle is lighted on each day of Kwanzaa to mark the Nguzo Saba, seven principles for African Americans to live by. They are unity, self-determination, collective work and responsibility, cooperative economics, purpose, creativity and faith.

Kwanzaa is also a time to remember one’s ancestors. One way to do this is through food--the dishes that are becoming Kwanzaa traditions are based on the cooking of Africans all over the world, whether it’s Antigua or Alabama.

Copage’s book is considered the definitive guide for Kwanzaa cooks, but several others are on the market. One good book released this month is “A Kwanzaa Celebration: Festive Recipes and Homemade Gifts From an African-American Kitchen” (Dutton) by Angela Shelf Medearis. The Kwanzaa Karamu table typically is filled with several dishes; the menu that follows is a basic salad-to-dessert dinner based on Shelf Medearis’ Karamu suggestions.

MENU

Jambalaya Salad

Moroccan Honey Chicken

New-Style Collard Greens

Fruits of Africa Pie

SHOPPING LIST

1 small green bell pepper

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans stewed tomatoes

2 (2- to 3-pound) chickens

Sesame seeds

2 bunches collard greens

2 pounds smoked turkey wings

1 1/2 cups papaya, guava or apricot nectar

1 papaya

1 small pineapple

1/2 pint whipping cream

Shredded coconut

1 (3-ounce) bag peanuts

1 (3-ounce) bag almonds

Whole-wheat pastry flour

PANTRY

Mayonnaise

Yellow mustard

French salad dressing

Garlic

Rice

Celery

Tomatoes

Onion

Tomato paste

Salt and pepper

Cinnamon

Ground ginger

Honey

Dried red pepper or cayenne

Sugar

Olive oil

Rolled oats

Butter

Lemon

Cornstarch

GAME PLAN:

Night before: Make pie crust, leave at room temperature covered with a kitchen towel. Make jambalaya salad dressing; keep cold. Cook rice; after allowing to cool, refrigerate. Dice tomatoes, celery and bell peppers for salad, keep refrigerated.

3 hours before meal: Prepare pie filling, then assemble pie and refrigerate.

2 hours before meal: Prepare collard greens.

1 1/2 hours before meal: Prepare chicken.

20 minutes before meal: Garnish pie with whipped topping, coconut and peanuts; return to refrigerator. Assemble and dress jambalaya salad.

JAMBALAYA SALAD

1 cup mayonnaise, or to taste

2 tablespoons yellow mustard

3 tablespoons French salad dressing

1 clove garlic, mashed

2 cups cooked rice, cooled

1 cup diced celery

2 1/2 cups diced tomatoes

1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper, ribs and seeds removed

Place mayonnaise, mustard, salad dressing and garlic in medium bowl and mix well. Add rice, celery, tomatoes and bell pepper. Toss until well blended. Refrigerate.

Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

233 calories; 398 mg sodium; 11 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.66 grams fiber.

MOROCCAN HONEY CHICKEN

2 (16-ounce) cans stewed tomatoes, with liquid

1 large onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, mashed

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons ground ginger

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons honey

2 (2- to 3-pound) frying chickens, cut into serving pieces

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, optional

In large pot or Dutch oven over low heat, cook tomatoes, onion, garlic, tomato paste, 1/2 teaspoon salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, ginger, and 1/4 cup honey until well blended. Add chicken, spoon sauce over pieces, cover and cook until chicken is tender, about 1 hour. Remove chicken pieces from pot and set aside. Boil remaining sauce, stirring occasionally, until it thickens, about 10 minutes. Add remaining 2 tablespoons honey, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1 teaspoon salt to sauce. Return chicken to pot and heat through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Serve chicken covered with sauce. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, if desired.

Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

338 calories; 697 mg sodium; 81 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 25 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 1.06 grams fiber.

NEW-STYLE COLLARD GREENS

Though not low-fat, this recipe greatly reduces the fat normally added to collard greens but keeps the flavor.

2 bunches (about 4 pounds) collard greens

Water

2 pounds smoked turkey wings, cut at the joints

2 teaspoons salt

1 or 2 dried red peppers or 1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

1 clove garlic, mashed

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon olive oil

Cut tough stems and yellow leaves from collard greens and discard. Gently rub leaves under warm running water to free any clinging silt. Cut greens into large pieces. Soak leaves in warm, salted water 10 minutes. Rinse with cool water and drain in colander.

In large pot, bring 6 cups water to boil. Add collard greens, turkey wings, salt, red pepper, garlic, sugar and olive oil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer over low heat until greens are very tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Stir occasionally and add hot water to cover the greens as needed.

Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

235 calories; 687 mg sodium; 82 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 1.33 grams fiber.

FRUITS OF AFRICA PIE

ALMOND-GRANOLA PIE CRUST

1/2 cup ground almonds

1/2 cup granola, rolled oats or muesli

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 cup butter, chilled

1 1/2 tablespoons honey

FILLING

1 1/2 cups papaya, guava or apricot nectar

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup cornstarch

2 cups diced fresh fruit (papaya, pineapple, melon, oranges, guavas)

Meanwhile, in 2-quart saucepan, bring nectar to boil, then reduce heat to simmer. In small bowl, mix together lemon juice, sugar and salt. Slowly add cornstarch, stirring until smooth. Add cornstarch mixture to nectar in saucepan. Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until glaze is thick and clear. Cool 10 minutes, then add diced fruit, stirring until pieces are well coated.

Pour filling into pie crust and refrigerate until chilled. Before serving, cover pie with whipped cream. Garnish with coconut and chopped peanuts.

Makes 1 (9-inch) pie, about 8 servings. Each serving contains about:

459 calories; 369 mg sodium; 72 mg cholesterol; 32 grams fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.52 grams fiber.

ALMOND-GRANOLA PIE CRUST

In large bowl, mix almonds, granola, flour, cinnamon and salt. Cut in butter. Add honey and gather dough into ball. Do not roll out; instead, pinch off pieces and press into 9-inch pie pan, starting from center of pan and pressing out to edges. Cover rim of pan with dough and pinch edges into design. Refrigerate at least 1 to 2 hours. Bake at 350 degrees 5 minutes.

TOPPING

1 cup whipping cream, whipped, or 1 (8-ounce) carton frozen whipped topping, thawed

1/2 cup shredded coconut

1/2 cup chopped peanuts

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Kitchen Tip

There are many members of the greens family--in addition to the tops of vegetables like turnips and beets--that are frequently used in Southern cooking. Collards are large and tough, colored a dull shade of green with a fairly neutral flavor. Mustard greens have frilled edges and are lighter green. They have a decided bite, more like horseradish than mustard. They are also a bit more delicate and take less cooking. In between you can frequently find something called Texas mustard greens that are sturdier than mustards and have a somewhat milder flavor. Whatever the type of green, the custom is to cook them for hours, though they can be cooked much less and will have a fresher--though perhaps less complex--flavor.