When Quality Outlives Hollywood Trends

The scenario goes something like this: A chic nightspot is born, blossoms and, just as quickly as it became the “in” place to be and be seen, it turns into yesterday’s news.

Jimmy’s Restaurant and Bar has been around long enough to know that tradition is somewhat of an anomaly in this town. The posh Beverly Hills bistro continues to be a buzzword among the establishment after 18 years in business simply because quality and consistency always prevail over trendy.

“We try to make people feel very relaxed when they’re here,” said manager Sean Murphy. “Because of that we get people who come to dinner four or five nights a week. Some of them have been coming for years.”

Jimmy’s is a family owned and operated business steeped in tradition. Sean Murphy runs this establishment alongside his father, Jimmy Murphy, and together they have created a classy trattoria that has been a mainstay among celebrities and socialites. The tradition of fine dining and elegant ambience is a staple in the operation, but the jazz evenings that were recently added have helped give Jimmy’s the edge it needs to stay fresh.

In the lavish lounge adorned with pink azaleas and candles a new scene is unfolding. A classy breed of swingers, some old, some young, flock to the lounge. These jet-setters smoke cigars to the tunes of the Dave Mackay Jazz Trio as they sip European wines and cocktails. It’s all very mellow, but social activity is buzzing.

On the other hand, the turn-of-the-century French decor and rich cuisine garner the support of longtime patrons, who savor meals and tantalizing talk in a candle-lit dining room that’s private enough to enjoy the company of others.

Jimmy’s is chic, without effort. Members of the old Hollywood rat pack used to frequent the restaurant and celebs such as Don Rickles, Milton Berle and Bob Newhart are regulars here. Rickles usually comes with a cigar in hand, says host Marilee Frazier, and when he pops in for an evening cigar, sales are always up.

Cigars are chic here. Frazier roams the bar carrying a humidor filled with Dominican and Honduran products and many nights she runs out of stock. Couples come off the dance floor and purchase a smoke. Women in minks and diamonds flag down Frazier for a medium-bodied Arturo Fuente.

Frazier once sold a cigar to Arnold Schwarzenegger. Liam Neeson and Robert De Niro have been customers, too. Her favorite story, however, is about the man who purchased a cigar for George Burns, just so he could say he bought the comedy great a stogie.

While there is no written dress code at Jimmy’s, haute couture lends much to the establishment’s elegance. On a recent evening, mink coats and sequined gowns were ubiquitous, though there was one customer wearing bluejeans. Most men wear dinner jackets or coats, but many opt for the Hollywood look--a turtleneck or T-shirt under dressier garb.

The classy atmosphere is what draws this crowd. Scott Mackay and Kathy Hechtlinger turned up in the lounge on a recent Friday evening for cocktails and music. Mackay, who is the grandson of Maude Chasen, founder of the legendary now-closed Chasen’s restaurant, said he makes Jimmy’s a regular haunt since the bistro and bar resemble the family owned restaurant where he grew up.

“There is so much tradition in this restaurant, just like Chasen’s, and that’s hard to find these days,” says Mackay, 31, of West Los Angeles. “Here you consistently get quality.”

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What: Jimmy’s Restaurant and Bar, 201 Moreno Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 552-2394.

When: Jazz program, Friday and Saturday, 9 p.m.-2 a.m. Restaurant, Monday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-midnight. Lounge, Monday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-1 a.m.

Cost: Peppered salmon, $17; Salade a la Jimmy’s, $7; cigars, $8; chardonnay, $5.50; Merlot, $8; mixed drinks, $5-$6.