How Green Was My Sparrowgrass

Seeing bright green asparagus in the supermarket means spring to me. The very name, which comes from a Greek root meaning to swell or burst forth, says it all.

Asparagus is versatile--use it in soups, salads, pastas, rice dishes and vegetable side dishes--so you can indulge several times a week with no danger of monotony.

When selecting asparagus, look for firm, bright green stalks with tight tips. If the stalks appear withered or the tips flimsy and separating, the asparagus is not fresh. I’ve tried storing asparagus by standing bunches in a container in a couple of inches of water, but it seems as effective (and much easier) to keep it tightly wrapped in plastic. But don’t count on much more than two days of successful storage either way.

Here are the basics of cooking asparagus:

* Always wash asparagus well (especially the tips), because asparagus is grown in sandy soil.

* Trim the tough light-colored ends. They can be discarded or sliced thin and added to soup.

* For a tender, evenly cooked spear, peel the stem. Lay the spear on a board (it may seem more logical to hold it in your hand, but the spear will often break if you do) and peel with a sharp, swivel-bladed vegetable peeler. Start about two inches below the tip growth and rotate the spear between strokes to expose more skin to be peeled.

* To poach asparagus, simmer, uncovered (to keep it green), in salted water until tender but still a little firm, four to seven minutes, depending on the thickness. Test with the point of a sharp paring knife . . . or better yet, taste a spear.

* If you want to cook ahead, chill the asparagus under cold running water as soon as the spears are done (this will preserve the bright color) and keep at room temperature until serving. That shouldn’t be more than a couple of hours; if you’re thinking of cooking asparagus so far ahead that you’d want to refrigerate the spears after cooking, think again--refrigeration will diminish the flavor. Asparagus takes so little time to cook that you might as well cook it at serving time.

SPRING RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS, PEAS AND LEEKS

If you’d like to cook the risotto an hour in advance, slightly undercook the mixture (leaving out the peas and cheese) and transfer it to a microwaveable dish. Keep it at room temperature, stirring in some hot broth if the mixture is too thick. To finish, cook on high power (100%) until hot, stirring occasionally every 45 seconds. Then stir in the peas and cheese and check the seasoning. It’s not as good as it would be freshly made, but it works if you’ve got a lot of other dishes going.

3 3/4 cups vegetable stock or broth

1 1/2 cups water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small leek, tough green leaves trimmed, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

1 1/2 cups arborio rice

1 pound slender asparagus, tough ends trimmed, stem peeled, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces (about 2 1/2 cups)

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup tiny frozen peas

Freshly ground pepper

1/3 cup grated imported Parmesan cheese plus extra for serving

Bring stock and water to boil on stove top or in microwave oven. Keep at simmer.

Meanwhile, heat olive oil in heavy 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add leek. Cook until softened, about 3 minutes, stirring often. Add rice, stirring to coat. Cook 1 minute.

Add 1 cup hot liquid to rice. Using wooden spoon, stir slowly and steadily over medium-high heat to keep mixture from sticking. As soon as liquid is absorbed, add more hot liquid, 1 cup at a time. Stir continuously throughout cooking. After 10 minutes, add asparagus and more liquid as needed (use boiling water if stock is used up). Continue cooking and stirring until rice is tender and creamy (add liquid carefully toward end so rice does not become runny).

When rice is tender and creamy, yet still firm to the bite, about 20 to 25 minutes, add peas, pepper to taste and cheese. Stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately. Pass additional cheese separately.

Makes 4 main-course servings.

Each serving contains about:

427 calories; 1,172 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 74 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 2.34 grams fiber.

ROASTED POTATOES, SHALLOTS, RED PEPPER AND ASPARAGUS WITH FRESH BASIL

This is a colorful mix of roasted vegetables; it works well with any simply prepared meats, poultry or fish.

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon olive oil

1 pound baby white potatoes (about 14), scrubbed, cut in half

6 large shallots (about 1/2 ounce each) peeled, cut in half

1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares

1 1/2 pounds asparagus (preferably 1/2 inch thick), tough ends trimmed, stems peeled, cut on diagonal into 1-inch pieces

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons finely julienned fresh basil leaves

1 to 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

Put 1 tablespoon oil in jelly roll pan. Heat in 400-degree oven until hot, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes, shallots and pepper squares to hot oil. Shake pan until vegetables are well coated.

Roast in oven 20 minutes. Use spatula to turn vegetables. Roast 20 minutes more.

Add asparagus and remaining oil to pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Toss mixture until well mixed. Arrange vegetables in single layer.

Roast until asparagus spears are tender, 12 to 15 minutes, depending on thickness of asparagus. Toss with basil and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Adjust seasoning and vinegar as desired. Serve hot.

Makes 4 to 5 servings.

Each of 4 servings contains about:

183 calories; 160 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 2.05 grams fiber.

ASPARAGUS SALAD WITH BELGIAN ENDIVE AND ROASTED RED PEPPER, BASIL DRESSING

This salad can be served warm or at room temperature. For color and taste, it’s a great choice for the buffet table. For the best presentation, keep the strips of vegetables and asparagus in the same direction.

SALAD

1 pound asparagus (preferably about 1/2-inch thick), tough ends trimmed, stems peeled

2 heads Belgian endive, cut into long narrow strips

1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled and cut into long narrow strips

Simmer asparagus in 12-inch skillet in enough boiling salted water to cover until just tender but still a little firm, 4 to 7 minutes, depending on thickness of asparagus. Drain and place under cold running water until cool. Place in large shallow bowl. Add endive and roasted red pepper. Can be assembled to this point a few hours ahead and kept at room temperature.

DRESSING

1/4 teaspoon minced garlic

12 large basil leaves

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Mix garlic, basil, vinegar, oil, honey and salt in blender or food processor fitted with metal blade. Add salt.

ASSEMBLY

To serve warm, heat salad and dressing in 12-inch non-aluminum skillet over medium-high heat until heated through, about 2 minutes, shaking pan to distribute heat and dressing. To serve at room temperature, add dressing to salad and shake bowl to distribute.

Transfer salad to salad plates. Garnish plates with basil leaves.

Makes 4 to 5 servings.

Each of 4 servings contains about:

213 calories; 207 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 3.31 grams fiber.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

Kitchen Tip

To roast peppers, place rack six inches from heat source and turn broiler on. Line cookie sheet with aluminum foil. Stand peppers on work surface, cut off sides of each in four slabs, following natural flat contours as much as possible. Cut off bottom piece. Discard stem and heart. Arrange pieces on prepared cookie sheet, skin-side up. Broil until skin is blackened.

Remove from oven. Wrap foil lining around peppers and let rest 10 minutes to steam. Slip off skins.

Can be refrigerated up to three days or frozen up to one month. To freeze, put each pepper in a separate small plastic bag, tied airtight.

* Plate from Bristol Kitchens, South Pasadena.