When it comes to dining, the City...

When it comes to dining, the City of Brotherly Love is boldly moving forward while keeping close tabs on tradition. The city as well as the suburbs have a United Nations of tastes and cruisines.

Best Resaurants

Deux Cheminees

1221 Locust St.; (215) 790-0200

Chef- owner Fritz Blanc is considered a master of excellent, if heavy, French cuisine in this elegant, 19th century Center City townhouse. Service is formal and a few lament the haughty attitudes and prices. But patrons enjoy the romantic setting.

Food: 26, Decor: 27, Service: 25, Cost: $54.

*

The Fountain

Four Seasons Hotel, 1 Logan Square; (215) 963-1500 Diners say this restaurant sets the standard for Philadelphia hotel dining with its opulentinternational fare. Service is called first-rate. The classy decor and all- day gourmet brunch win kudos. It’s expensive but worth it.

Food: 28, Decor: 28, Service: 28, Cost: $48

*

Le Bec-Fin

1523 Walnut St.; (215) 567-1000 The haute French cuisine, from rich dishes to heavenly desserts, are much praised. The beautiful formal decor and impeccable service carry a steep price, but few seem to care, saying their dining experience here is better than a trip to Paris.

Food: 29, Decor: 28, Service: 28, Cost: $74

*

Saloon

750 S. 7th St.; (215) 627-1811

Patrons say if it’s good enough for Sinatra, it’s good enough for them. It’s a noisy and crowded, if pricey, “good ol’ boys place” with huge portions of some of the best Italian food anywhere.

Food: 26, Decor: 24, Service: 23, Cost: $40

*

Chanterelles

1312 Spruce St.; (215) 735-7551

This small, elegant Center City French establishment is a challenger to Le Bec- Fin for impeccable presentation and high prices. Chef- owner Philppe Chin is called a true talent in the kitchen.

Food: 26, Decor: 20, Service: 25, Cost: $49

*

Zagot Surveys are a series of regional dining and lodging guides based on extensive ratings and reveiws contributed by local restaurant goers and travelers. Ratings for food, decor and services are based on a numerical scale: 0-9, poor to fair; 10-19, good to very good;

20-25, very good to excellent; 26-30, extraordinary to perfect.

For more information or to participate in future surveys, call (800) 333-3421. Copyright 1995, Eugene H. Zagot Jr. and Nina S. Zagot