Ring Up to Ring In : Restaurants: It’s never too early to think about reservations for the big night. Nor too early to start saving to pay the bill.

Many are the ways to celebrate the new year: A quiet dinner at home and a great bottle of bubbly or a pull-out-all-the-stops feast with frilly party hats, corks flying at midnight and an entire restaurant staff at your service.

To ring in 1997, Los Angeles-area restaurants have planned all sorts of festivities for your pleasure, everything from a simple three-course Italian meal to a gala spread with strolling violinists.

Diners with something less fussy and more affordable in mind should consider the first seating; menus are simpler and service is more efficient. You’ll be home in plenty of time to chill a bottle of bubbly and arrange yourself on the sofa before the countdown to midnight.

Whatever your New Year’s Eve plans, don’t wait to make reservations. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the cancellation policy. And have your credit card handy: Most restaurants want a credit card number to secure a reservation, especially for the popular second seating.

Unless otherwise noted, prices are per person and for food only.

Revelers at Alto Palato will salute 1997 with a taste of lentil and sausage stew at midnight, a tradition that’s supposed to ensure luck and prosperity in the coming year. A live band, four-course menu ($75) and a glass of Laurent Perrier complete the package. Alto Palato, 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles. (310) 657-9271.

A deejay and party favors compete with fresh wild game and other entrees at Patina. The early seating (between 5 and 6 p.m.) features a five-course menu ($65). Late diners (between 9 and 10 p.m.) extend the revelry with six courses ($150), Mumm’s Cordon Rouge, funny hats and a deejay, too. Patina, 5955 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 467-1108.

Some people celebrate with a feast; others, with a few rich bites. The Peninsula Beverly Hills offers both. Caviar and champagne ($98) is served in the Living Room from 8:30 to 10 p.m. A more formal four-course meal awaits in the Belvedere ($69) for the early seating (6 p.m.); at 9 p.m., dinner extends to six courses ($198) and dancing. The Peninsula Beverly Hills, 9882 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 551-2888.

Black tie is not mandatory at the Polo Grill, unless you’re a musician. Strolling violinists will herald the New Year. So will a lavish five-course menu ($96). One seating,9 p.m. The Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills (310) 276-2251.

Earplugs are optional at Abiento, where live mariachi music accompanies a three-course menu ($45) and glasses of bubbly. Open seating. Abiento, 110 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena. (818) 449-4151.

The Restaurant of the Hotel Bel-Air offers an early seating (6 p.m.) with an a la carte menu. A five-course menu ($275) at 9 p.m. includes champagne, party favors and dancing. Hotel Bel-Air, 701 Stone Canyon Road, Los Angeles. (310) 472-1211.

The first guests at La Cachette (5:30 p.m.) sit down to a three-course menu ($55), while the later seating (9:30 p.m.) features a four-course menu ($110), which includes an assortment of caviar or bouillabaisse, and dancing until 2 a.m. La Cachette, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles. (310) 470-4992.

Send the old year off with hand-rolled cigars and dancing at Cava’s Fiesta Latina Ball. A three-course menu ($90), a bottle of champagne and party favors greet 1997. Open seating from 7 p.m. Cava at the Beverly Plaza Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 658-8898.

Bid adieu to 1996 with panettone with mascarpone sauce. The Italian Christmas bread caps a special four-course menu ($59) at Locanda del Lago. Festivities include live jazz, party favors and a glass of bubbly at midnight. Open seating from 9 p.m. Locanda del Lago, 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica. (310) 451-3525.

Don’t let those gold flakes on the pheasant consomme float away. They’re edible good luck, according to chefs at Pangaea. Their New Year’s Eve fe^te includes a six-course menu ($82), live music and party favors. One seating from 8:30 to 9 p.m. Pangaea Restaurant, Hotel Nikko, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles. (310) 246-2100.

At Pinot at the Chronicle, the first seating from 5 to 6 p.m. gets things rolling with a four-course dinner ($45); a five-course menu ($99) with Mumm Cordon Rouge, party favors and a deejay follows from 9 to 10 p.m. Pinot at the Chronicle, 897 Granite Drive, Pasadena. (818) 792-1179.

Live entertainment, sparkling wines and a four-course menu ($75) welcome the New Year at the new Restaurant Jozu. Two seatings: 6 and 9:30 p.m. Restaurant Jozu, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 655-5600.

Jazz, wine and a four-course menu ($50) usher in the first seating (5:30 to 6:30 p.m.) at both Twin Palms locations (Pasadena and Newport Beach). Big-band sounds switch gears at the second seating (8:30 to 9:30 p.m.) that includes drinks, wine and a four-course menu ($125). Twin Palms Pasadena, 101 W. Green St., Pasadena. (818) 57-PALMS. Twin Palms Newport Beach, 630 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (714) 721-8288.

A Latin pop band and signature dishes will grace a special menu ($45) at Border Grill. Open seating from 5 p.m. Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica. (310) 451-1655.