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Behold the Flexible Mushroom Flan

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of "American Favorites" (Chapters, 1996)

Several weeks ago, I prepared some mushroom flans that proved to be quite flexible. I offered them first as a side dish for a roast filet of beef. A few days later, I assembled the savory custards for another meal, but this time they were a striking first course. Now I’m contemplating including them as the main course for a weekend brunch.

To prepare the flans, I sauteed shiitake and domestic white mushrooms with garlic, then simmered this mixture in stock along with flavorings of rosemary and thyme. I added chopped green onions during the final minutes of cooking, and then combined the mushroom mixture with eggs, half and half and Parmesan cheese. The flans are baked in small souffles or ramekins until set.

In addition to being incredibly versatile, these flans have another important advantage. They can be baked and unmolded a day ahead and then reheated when needed.

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SAVORY MUSHROOM FLANS: Low-Fat Cooking

Nonstick cooking spray

3 tablespoons butter

1/2 pound fresh white mushrooms, cleaned, dried and coarsely chopped

1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms, cleaned, dried, stems discarded and tops coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

4 eggs

1 cup half and half

6 tablespoons grated imported Parmesan cheese, plus 1 (3- to 4-ounce) piece Parmesan cheese for garnish

6 rosemary sprigs, optional

Spray 6 (1-cup) souffles, ramekins or custard cups with nonstick cooking spray. Cut 6 circles of parchment paper to fit cup bottoms and place in each container. (Note: Parchment paper works better than wax paper, which becomes wet and hard to remove.) Spray circles with nonstick cooking spray and arrange prepared dishes on baking sheet.

Heat butter in large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add white and shiitake mushrooms and saute, stirring constantly, until all liquids have evaporated and mushrooms are lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic, rosemary, thyme, pepper and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir and cook 1 minute more.

Add broth and bring mixture to simmer. Cook, stirring constantly, until all liquid has evaporated, 2 to 4 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Remove mushrooms from heat. Divide mixture evenly among parchment-lined dishes.

Gently whisk together eggs and half and half in medium mixing bowl or large measuring cup just to mix. Divide egg mixture evenly among dishes. Stir 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese into each dish.

Bake custards on baking sheet at 350 degrees until just golden on top and wood pick comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove and cool 3 to 4 minutes. Run knife around edges of dishes to loosen, then invert flans to unmold. Invert again so that golden sides are up. (Note: If not using immediately, cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat, loosely covered with foil, on baking sheet at 350 degrees until hot, about 15 minutes.)

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To serve, shave several slices Parmesan cheese on top of each flan and garnish with rosemary sprig.

6 servings. Per serving:

307 calories; 473 mg sodium; 177 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 4.68 grams fiber.

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