Flexing Your Mussels

Mussels belong to the same category (bivalve mollusk) as clams and oysters, and Europeans have always had a passion for them. Oddly, though, they have been slow to gain favor with American cooks.

Maybe this is because mussels used to be difficult to clean because they were harvested by in the wild.

But the farm-raised mussels in today’s marketplace are grown on ropes, far from the sand and muck of the ocean bottom, and are easy to clean.

And mussels are a marvelous ingredient, not just tasty but quick to cook and available all year. They figure in such popular dishes as bouillabaisse and paella, work well in combination with robust flavors (especially garlic) and are a great value, selling for $2 to $3 a pound.

BROILED MUSSELS WITH GARLICKY CRUMBS

Mussels may be steamed, cooled and topped with the crumbs several hours in advance, then broiled at serving time. Serve as an appetizer with toothpicks or as a first course with small seafood forks.

1 1/2 pounds small mussels

2 tablespoons white wine or water

2 1/2 teaspoons finely minced garlic

2 1/2 teaspoons finely minced shallot

2 1/2 teaspoons finely minced parsley

3/4 cup fine fresh bread crumbs

6 tablespoons butter, melted

1/4 teaspoon salt, rounded

Steam mussels in tightly covered skillet with wine until shells open, 3 to 4 minutes.

When mussels are cool enough to handle, drain and reserve liquid for soups or sauces. Open mussels. Discard empty shell halves. Place shells with mussel on jellyroll pan.

Process garlic, shallot, parsley, bread crumbs, butter and salt in food processor fitted with metal blade, or mix well with fork in small bowl. Divide crumbs evenly over mussels.

Broil about 4 inches from heat source until browned and sizzling, about 2 minutes. Serve hot.

6 servings. Each serving:

253 calories; 402 mg sodium; 63 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

MUSSELS WITH RED PEPPER, FENNEL AND BASIL

If you want richer finish, swirl in 1 to 2 tablespoons butter. When tomatoes are in season, you can substitute diced tomato for the red pepper. Crusty warm bread and side dishes of creamed spinach or mashed root vegetables are good accompaniments.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 cup finely diced fennel

1/2 cup finely diced red bell pepper

3 tablespoons dry white wine or water

1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 pounds small mussels, cleaned, steamed

1/2 cup orange juice

3 tablespoons basil leaves, sliced thin

1 to 2 tablespoons butter, optional

Salt

Heat oil in large pot over medium-high heat. Add garlic, fennel and bell pepper. Stir until heated through, about 1 minute.

Add wine, red pepper flakes and mussels. Cover and cook over high heat until mussels have opened and are hot, about 5 minutes.

Add orange juice, basil and butter, if using. Heat through. Salt to taste. Use slotted spoon to transfer mussels to 2 warm shallow soup bowls. Spoon vegetables and broth over mussels. Serve hot.

2 servings. Each serving:

376 calories; 819 mg sodium; 64 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 32 grams protein; 3.92 grams fiber.

PASTA WITH MUSSELS AND SPICY MARINARA SAUCE

The marinara sauce can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerated or frozen for up to 3 months.

MARINARA SAUCE

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 cups chopped onions

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon sugar

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can peeled, diced tomatoes

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

MUSSELS

3 pounds small mussels, cleaned

4 1/2 tablespoons dry white wine or water

2 teaspoons minced garlic

8 ounces spaghettini, cooked according to package directions, hot

MARINARA SAUCE

Heat oil in 2-quart pot over low heat. Add onion, garlic and sugar and cook, uncovered, until onions are light tan, about 15 minutes.

Add tomato sauce, canned tomatoes and red pepper flakes. Simmer, covered, 15 minutes, stirring often. Sauce will be thick.

MUSSELS

Combine mussels, wine and garlic in large pot. Cook, covered, over high heat until shells open, about 5 or 6 minutes, shaking pan often to distribute heat. Drain liquid; reserve.

Add mussel liquid to sauce for desired consistency. Heat sauce until hot. Adjust seasoning.

Divide spaghettini among 4 warm shallow bowls. Top with mussels. Spoon sauce over. Serve hot.

4 servings. Each serving:

494 calories; 1,130 mg sodium; 48 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 74 grams carbohydrates; 31 grams protein; 2.19 grams fiber.

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Kitchen Tips

* Rely on reputable fish markets where there is high sales volume and a knowledgeable staff.

* Choose mussels with tightly closed shells or ones that snap shut when tapped; they are fresh and alive. Avoid gaping or broken shells.

* Look for smaller mussels, about 22 to a pound; they are sweeter and more tender than the large ones.

* Buy your mussels the day you plan to eat them.

* Clean mussels before cooking. Put them in a bowl with cold water to cover. Add about 1 teaspoon salt per pound of mussels and stir well. Let stand 30 minutes to purge any grit. Pull or cut off the tough tendrils known as beards. Rinse well.

* How to steam mussels quickly: Put them in a large pot with 1 1/2 tablespoons dry white wine (dry vermouth works well) or water for each pound. Cook, covered, over high heat until shells open, about 5 to 6 minutes, shaking the pot often to distribute the heat. When cool enough to handle, discard mussels that refuse to open. The mussels are ready to use in a recipe or to be served dipped in melted butter. The cooking liquid can be frozen for fish soups and sauces.

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Kitchen Tips

To roast and peel a bell pepper, grill it or place it under a broiler until the skin begins to blacken. Turn to blacken all sides, then remove and cover with cloth or place in plastic bag for 10 minutes. The peel will slip right off.