Asparagus Prices Tumble

Traditionally, the week after Easter marks the produce industry’s transition from winter to spring. Things that were greeted with expectation in March become April’s standard fare.

That’s especially true this year in the asparagus fields. Prices for asparagus have plummeted during the last week as steady warm temperatures have pushed the Salinas growing area into early production, overlapping with the tail-ends of the harvests in Mexico and the Imperial Valley.

Asparagus that was wholesaling for $1.50 a pound last week is now trading for less than $1 a pound. That’s the lowest price at this time of year since 1993. Retail prices will vary depending on quality and markup, but they should be in the $2-to-$2.50-a-pound range.

“Prices have been coming down considerably,” says a harried-sounding Matt Seeley, who sells asparagus for Nunes Co., which has fields in all three areas. “All three are going strong right now. Supplies are great, and quality is very, very good.”

Look for asparagus that has tightly furled tips and moist, fresh-looking cut ends. A good produce manager will have the asparagus standing in a shallow tray of water to keep it fresh.

Then comes the really big question: Thick or thin? It’s all a matter of personal taste, really. Thin asparagus doesn’t need to be peeled, while thick asparagus does. Because it’s peeled, thick asparagus tends to taste a little milder, a little less “green.” The texture is also different. The green outer skin of the asparagus is tough and a bit stringy. Unpeeled, thin asparagus has a slightly wiry texture, unless it’s overcooked. Peeled asparagus is fat and buttery.

How to cook asparagus? At first, you’ll probably want to keep it as simple as possible. Trim the tough stem ends (hold the asparagus at both ends and bend; it’ll snap just above the woody part). Lay the asparagus--peeled or unpeeled, as you like it--flat in a large, shallow skillet. Add about 1/4 inch of water, cover and place over high heat. When the mixture comes to a boil, salt lightly and continue cooking, covered. Give the pan a shake every once in a while to stir things up.

When the asparagus is as tender as you like it (about 5 minutes for thin, 7 to 10 for thick; it should bend slightly when held at one end, but it certainly shouldn’t collapse), remove it from the pan to a warm platter. Continue boiling the cooking water until it is reduced by half. Add a couple pats of butter and boil, shaking the pan, until the butter emulsifies. Pour this over the asparagus.

If you’re really greedy, you’ll do what I do: Line the platter with thin slices of good bread to catch all of the juice.

Once you’ve had an asparagus gorge or two, you can begin to experiment: Fix it with eggs, pastas, risottos--heck, put it on a pizza or serve it in a sandwich if you want. With prices this low, there’s no sense in holding back.