Detour Ahead?

Though Ojai was cast as Shangri-La in Frank Capra’s 1937 film “Lost Horizon” and is today a kind of utopia for golfers and nature enthusiasts, it’s never been paradise for food lovers. None of its restaurants have warranted what France’s venerable Michelin guide would call a detour. But that may soon change.

Over several visits to Ojai Valley Inn, I found things looking up. The 220-acre golf resort has a new young chef, Rex Hale, in charge of its two restaurants, the formal Vista Dining Room and the casual Oak Grill. Hale last cooked at Jumby Bay Island Resort in Antigua, West Indies, and has worked at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, Baby Routh in Dallas and American Restaurant in Kansas City. One of the first things he did when he arrived in Ojai was plant an herb garden. Then other promising signs: He acquainted himself with local farmers, ranchers and seafood purveyors and arranged to serve goat cheese from a producer just up the road.

The menu at Vista changes daily, as Hale shifts spices and herbs, seafood and meats with the seasons to create what he calls “coastal harvest cuisine.” Too bad he has to work with such an unattractive room. Harshly lit, it looks left over from the ‘70s, and the mechanics of serving in a large hotel dining room intrude. Better to reserve a table on the small terrace, where you can enjoy a view of the nearby mountains instead.

Hale’s plates feature cylindrically molded grains, food piled architecturally, every element garnished. Some dishes--such as the scallops of foie gras on sweet, cinnamon-scented toast with julienned Granny Smith apples strewn around the plate--taste as good as they look. One night, there’s a lovely salad of roasted peppers anchored by a piece of fresh, creamy goat cheese. I also love the pristine Fanny Bay oysters splashed with a delightful coriander-curry mignonette and the slab of grilled polenta with real corn taste accompanied by a hedgehog mushroom and white truffle ragout that goes easy (for once) on the truffle oil.

Risotto and ravioli appear throughout the menu. One evening, thin slices of foie gras sit atop a celery root risotto made with barley--cooked as if it were arborio rice--wild mushrooms and artichokes. It’s a sensuous blend of flavors, but barley is better in soup. The special of pan-seared corvina is paired with delicate lobster ravioli in a butternut squash broth.

But a huge hunk of grilled strip loin steak, tiled with chewy sun-dried tomatoes, is gristly and unwieldy. And tender venison in a dark reduction strewn with blueberries has so much pepper in it that it blisters my lips. Lamb chops are excellent each time I order them. All of which is to say, the cooking can be uneven--in my experience, better on weeknights than weekends. But when dining on a weeknight this early in the season, you risk being the only guests, which can put a damper on things since you end up feeling as if the staff can’t wait for you to finish so they can go home.

The wine list goes strictly by the numbers, including the points prominent wine publications or wine gurus have awarded each bottle. (On weekends, there’s a sommelier to consult as well.) But why go to all this fuss and not have better glasses to show off the vaunted 90-plus-point wines? The selection of Central Coast wines is not as good as it could be either.

The broad terrace in front of the Oak Grill is a splendid place for lunch. Tables are set under a pergola of wisteria, all shaded by 250-year-old oak trees. This sun-dappled vantage point looks out on the mountains and the emerald expanse of the golf course. The food is simpler than Vista’s (though just as uneven): salads, sandwiches, burgers and pastas, with a handful of more ambitious entrees. But, oh, what a setting!

Bring a book and stay the afternoon. When that famous pink moment comes at sunset, eating here comes very close to Shangri-La.

OJAI VALLEY INN

CUISINE: California. AMBIENCE: Vista Dining Room has intimate terrace with mountain view; Oak Grill has spacious terrace overlooking golf course. BEST DISHES: Vista menu changes daily; at Oak Grill, try roasted local vegetable soup and grilled pork loin sandwich. WINE PICKS: 1994 Ojai Vineyards Syrah, Ojai. FACTS: Country Club Road, Ojai; (805) 646-5511. Vista is open daily for breakfast and dinner; dinner for two, food only, $65 to $108. Oak Grill is open daily for lunch and dinner; lunch for two, food only, $35 to $50.