Mussels, the Convenience Mollusk

Farm-raised mussels may suffer from a subtle loss of flavor, a certain briny taste and texture that comes from clinging to ocean rocks. But, as a food preparer, I love the convenience of farm-raised mussels that don’t have scraggly, tough-to-remove beards or weeks of barnacle build-up.

In fact, farm-raised mussels are as convenient as canned tuna, but a whole lot more interesting to prepare. You can steam and serve them in a garlicky broth, use them instead of clams in paella or a pasta dish, toss them with curried rice or couscous or just serve them plain with chile-accented mayonnaise.

Mussels are available fresh for most of the year in supermarkets and fish stores. If you’re buying mussels for the first time, buy more than you think you’ll need. More than half the weight is in the shell, and you may have a few you’ll need to discard. A two-pound bag isn’t too much for a twosome. Although you may be able to find shucked (shelled) mussels, those in the shell are a better buy and usually fresher.

Avoid any mussels with cracked shells and do not eat them raw. When mussels are cooked, the shells open and the delicate sweet meat is available. If shells won’t open, discard them.

Cooking mussels in a well-flavored liquid of wine, garlic and herbs results in delicious mussels with little effort.

MUSSELS STEAMED IN WHITE WINE

This recipe was adapted from a dish served at the Domaine Chandon Vineyard in Napa Valley.

MUSSELS

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 large shallot, minced

6 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds mussels, well scrubbed

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

2 cloves garlic, crushed

Salt

1 tablespoon minced flat-leaf parsley

GARLIC TOAST

2 large slices rustic or sourdough bread

1 clove garlic, halved

2 teaspoons olive oil

MUSSELS

Combine 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in large skillet. Add shallot, thyme, bay leaves and black pepper and cook over medium-high heat until shallot is tender, not browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add mussels and wine and cook, covered, over high heat until shells open, about 5 minutes. Discard any mussels that don’t open.

While mussels are cooking, combine remaining 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon butter in small skillet. Add garlic and saute over medium heat until tender, not browned, 3 to 5 minutes.

When mussels are done, stir in garlic mixture. Season to taste with salt and simmer 1 minute. Spoon out mussels and arrange in 2 deep bowls.

Strain wine mixture to remove solids, then pour over mussels. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately with Garlic Toast.

GARLIC TOAST

Rub bread slices with garlic, then brush lightly with olive oil. Place on baking sheet and toast under broiler until just brown, about 30 seconds per side.

2 servings. Each serving with toast:

654 calories; 1,004 mg sodium; 83 mg cholesterol; 35 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 26 grams protein; 0.39 gram fiber.