L.A.’s Own Barfly, Where Good Food and Trendiness Are in the Making

When I walked up to Barfly, the new restaurant and bar on Sunset Strip, one recent night, there wasn’t exactly a crowd clamoring to get into the place, yet there it was: the velvet rope, this one so low-slung, it was easier to step right over it than wait for the guardian at the gate to unhook it. I guess not enough of the right people have heard that the chic Paris bar has opened a West Hollywood outpost. Or that Kazuto Matsusaka, longtime Chinois and Zenzero chef, who left L.A. for Paris last year, is back, directing the kitchen at Barfly.

For such a trendy venue in the making, the food is much better than it needs to be. Seated beneath an oversized photograph of Charles Bukowski with Faye Dunaway, who starred in the 1986 film based on the writer’s life, we started with “barfly pizza,” basically a knockoff of Spago’s ever-popular creme fra^iche and smoked salmon pizza, and then tried an appealing version of Chinese chicken salad, and a sparkling fresh seafood salad. Seared sea scallops were terrific, served on little rounds of potato with a roasted pepper and basil salad. A Kansas City-style steak topped with herb butter was paired with a rich potato gratin. I’ve had better Wienerschnitzel, though.

For dessert, you won’t be sorry if you order either the profiteroles filled with vanilla, black walnut or chocolate ice creams and slathered in dark chocolate sauce. Or the fabulous trio of pot de cremes--basically creme bru^lee without the bru^lee--in vanilla bean, chocolate, and, most delicious, caramel flavors.

By 10, the disc jockey is cranking up the music, the velvet bar stools are filled with hipsters in tiny wire-rimmed glasses or eccentric hats. And from the looks of the crowd streaming in the door, that velvet rope might come in handy--much later. The good news is that the kitchen stays open till midnight.

BE THERE

Barfly Restaurant-Bar, 8730 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 360-9490. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Valet parking. Starters $8.50 to $18.50; pasta, pizza and sandwiches $8.50 to $12; dinner entrees $12 to $24.