Sizzling Steaks in the Summer? Too Cool!

The hot, humid days of summer impose a different style of cooking and eating on most of us. This is the season when chilled soups, simple grilled chicken and fish, salads, fresh ripe berries and icy cold sorbets reign supreme.

To avoid spending hours sweltering before the stove or oven, I’m always searching for quick, uncomplicated recipes. I also love dishes that let me take advantage of the season’s bountiful produce and fresh herbs.

Several days ago, I found the perfect summer main course in William Rice’s new “Steak Lover’s Cookbook” (Workman, 1997; $13.95). Small filet steaks are quickly broiled, then sliced and arranged on a bed of sliced cucumbers and topped with a superb dressing. Chopped mint, cilantro, green onions and lemongrass are the garnish.

Corn on the cob and tender green beans are fine accompaniments to this salad, and a bowl of strawberries and peaches served over slices of pound cake make a fine dessert.

ASIAN BEEF SALAD WITH CUCUMBER

1 to 2 jalapen~os, split, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons Thai fish sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons Japanese rice wine or dry Sherry

2 tablespoons white vinegar

2 teaspoons lime juice

2 green onions, white and some green stems, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped mint

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon very thinly sliced peeled lemongrass

2 (6-ounce) filet mignon steaks, cut 3/4 inch thick

1 tablespoon oil

1 cucumber

This recipe can easily be doubled.

Puree jalapen~os, salt, fish sauce, sugar, rice wine, vinegar and lime juice in food processor or blender and set aside.

Combine green onions, mint, cilantro and lemongrass in small bowl and set aside.

Pat steaks dry and coat lightly with oil. Broil 4 minutes or until brown and crusty on 1 side. Turn and broil 3 minutes more for medium-rare or 4 minutes more for medium.

Transfer steaks to cutting board and let rest 5 minutes. Carve each steak into 1/4-inch-thick slices. (Note: Recipe may be prepared ahead to this point. Cover and refrigerate sauce, herbs and meat separately. Return to room temperature before serving.)

Peel and seed cucumber and cut lengthwise into very thin 3- to 4-inch slices. Make bed of cucumber slices on platter or 2 or 3 plates. Arrange steak over cucumber. Spoon sauce over steak and sprinkle with herb mixture.

2 to 3 servings. Each of 3 servings:

247 calories; 1,446 mg sodium; 50 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 0.78 gram fiber.

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Kitchen Tip

Called nam pla in Thai, nuoc mam in Vietnamese, petis in Filipino and tuk trey in Cambodian, fish sauce is simply the salt brine in which fish have been pickled. It has a strong fishy aroma; in small quantities, it gives an indispensable authentic flavor to many Southeast Asian dishes. You can find fish sauce at Asian grocery stores and sometimes in the Asian section of supermarkets.