The Other Big Orange

We Californians know the change of seasons only by shy signs of nature. When my neighbor Betty Fairclough’s persimmon trees give up their leaves, leaving masses of orange persimmons hanging like ornaments, I know that fall has arrived.

She grows two varieties of persimmons, the acorn-shaped Hachiya, which is ready to eat when the pulp is mushy soft, and the tomato-shaped Fuyu, which can be eaten while still firm. Until Hachiyas are ripe, they are shockingly astringent. To bite into the bitter, tannin-filled persimmon is a traumatizing experience. I think this is one reason many people remain unaware of how delicious persimmons can be.

Raccoons, possums, squirrels and birds also are watching Betty’s persimmon crop. Just in time, before the fruit is completely ripe, Betty picks the persimmons and lets them ripen off the tree.

Ripening times of store-bought fruit may vary from a few days to a month or more, which can be quite frustrating to a persimmon fancier. To hasten the ripening process, put the persimmons in a plastic bag with an apple, then tie the bag shut. The ethylene gas produced by the apple acts as a ripening agent for the persimmons.

I use Betty’s Hachiyas for baking and eat the Fuyus raw. The following cookie recipe is Betty’s and can’t be beat. The chiffon pie comes from another fine cook, Frances Kaputof, who gets many requests for this light, lovely dessert.

Cunningham’s latest book is “Cooking With Children” (Alfred A. Knopf, 1995).

PERSIMMON COOKIES (30 MINUTES OR LESS)

1 cup shortening, plus extra for greasing pans

3/4 cup brown sugar, packed

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 egg

1 cup peeled and chopped persimmons (about 2 large or 3 or 4 small)

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ginger

1/2 teaspoon cloves

1 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup raisins

The persimmon flavor in this cookie is very subtle; the persimmons really provide more texture than taste.

Combine shortening, brown sugar and granulated sugar and beat until thoroughly blended. Add egg and beat well. Beat in persimmon pulp.

Combine flour, salt, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and cloves and stir and toss together. Add to sugar mixture and beat until thoroughly mixed. Stir in walnuts and raisins.

Drop by rounded teaspoons onto greased baking sheets. Bake at 350 degrees until cookies are puffed and slightly browned, about 10 to 15 minutes.

60 cookies. Each cookie:

84 calories; 42 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.16 gram fiber.

PERSIMMON CHIFFON PIE

NUT CRUST

1/2 cup almonds, finely chopped

1 1/3 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup oil

1/4 cup milk, about

FILLING

1 1/2 cups persimmon pulp

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 cup cold water

1 (1/4-ounce) envelope unflavored gelatin

2 teaspoons lime zest

1/4 cup lime juice

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 egg whites or 1/4 cup pasteurized egg whites

1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped

1/2 cup sliced almonds

The eggs in this recipe are uncooked and potential carriers of foodborne illnesses. Pasteurized egg whites, available in most supermarkets, are recommended.

NUT CRUST

Put almonds, flour and salt in bowl or food processor and mix well. Add oil and milk and stir or process until blended. Gather dough in rough ball. Add another tablespoon of milk if dough is too dry to form into ball.

Flatten dough between 2 sheets of wax paper. Roll out to at least 14-inch circle. Dough should be thin, not thick.

Remove top sheet of wax paper and lift sheet holding dough. Invert over 9- or 10-inch pie plate and peel off wax paper. If dough breaks or cracks, press back together. Prick bottom and sides of dough with fork.

Bake at 425 degrees 13 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.

FILLING

Put persimmon pulp into bowl and stir in lemon juice. Set aside.

Put cold water into small bowl and stir in gelatin. Let soften 5 minutes. Put bowl of softened gelatin into small pan of simmering water until gelatin is clear and dissolved, 3 to 5 minutes.

Stir lime zest and juice and 1/4 cup sugar into persimmon mixture. Blend well and stir in gelatin. Refrigerate until thickened, about 45 minutes.

Beat egg whites until stiff while slowly adding remaining 6 tablespoons sugar. Fold into persimmon mixture. Fold in whipped cream.

Spoon persimmon filling into baked nut crust and chill at least 3 hours. Garnish with sliced almonds.

8 servings. Each serving:

393 calories; 252 mg sodium; 21 mg cholesterol; 25 grams fat; 39 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.61 gram fiber.

STEAMED PERSIMMON PUDDING

1 cup pureed persimmons (about 3 persimmons with skins removed)

2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 eggs

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon rum

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup broken walnuts or pecans

1 cup raisins

There are persimmon puddings and there are persimmon puddings. This ends the search: It is the best. The color is dark, the texture moist and the flavor full and spicy. The pudding can be made ahead and reheated. It is delicious topped with a lemon sauce or sweetened whipped cream.

Using pan large enough to hold 2-quart pudding mold, add enough water to come halfway up sides of mold. Mold must have lid or be snugly covered with foil while steaming; coffee can with plastic lid works well. Put rack or Mason jar ring under mold in pan to allow water to circulate freely while pudding is steaming. Grease mold.

Bring water to boil over medium heat while mixing pudding batter.

Put persimmon puree in small bowl and stir in baking soda. Set aside. Persimmon mixture will become quite stiff.

Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs, lemon juice and rum and beat well. Add flour, cinnamon and salt and stir to blend. Add persimmon mixture and beat until well-mixed. Stir in nuts and raisins.

Spoon batter into mold. Cover and steam 2 hours. Remove from pan and let rest 5 minutes. Turn onto rack to cool. Or cool slightly and serve warm.

8 servings. Each serving:

484 calories; 285 mg sodium; 84 mg cholesterol; 22 grams fat; 69 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.04 grams fiber.

* More persimmons: “Joy of Cooking” Persimmon Buttermilk Pudding, H8.