An Old-Fashioned Feast

When I was growing up in Massachusetts, I thought cranberries, pumpkin, apples, cornmeal, pecans and walnuts were strictly New England foods. After all, the cranberry bogs were an agricultural force in Massachusetts, and Indian pudding is a recipe that originated in New England.

These days, Wisconsin outproduces Massachusetts in cranberries, which grow in abundance in Washington and Oregon as well. What’s more, Indian pudding’s essential ingredient, cornmeal, is now more commonly called polenta and is eaten in all sorts of very non-New England ways.

Still, these are foods that will always be rooted in my childhood. And this time of year, a simple cranberry-and-apple compote, spiced pumpkin bread with walnuts and currants, and a warm maple Indian pudding with pecans conjure fond memories. They may not boast new tastes, but their old-fashioned flavors round out the Thanksgiving feast.

WARM MAPLE INDIAN PUDDING

Typically, this pudding is flavored with molasses and densely textured. Here, the maple syrup, brown sugar and vanilla highlight the cornmeal, and the egg whites lighten the texture. The pudding should be served warm with a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream.

4 1/2 cups milk

3 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup maple syrup

1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/3 cup yellow cornmeal

2 eggs, separated

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 cup chopped pecans

Butter

1/2 cup lightly sweetened whipped cream

Combine 4 cups milk, butter, syrup, brown sugar, cinnamon, salt and ginger in 2-quart saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until butter melts and milk is scalding hot, about 5 minutes.

Add cornmeal all at once, whisking to break up any lumps. Reduce heat to low and cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Immediately whisk in egg yolks, 1 at a time. Whisk in vanilla.

Beat egg whites with electric mixer until stiff but still moist. Fold into hot mixture.

Pour into buttered 8-cup souffle or baking dish. Bake at 300 degrees until lightly browned and puffy, about 1 hour. Stir in remaining 1/2 cup milk. Bake until pudding is thickened and bubbling, about 2 1/2 hours more. Sprinkle evenly with pecans and bake 30 minutes more. Remove from oven and let rest on rack at least 2 hours before serving. (If made a day ahead, cool completely and refrigerate. Reheat, covered, in 300-degree oven until warm, about 20 minutes.) Serve warm with whipped cream.

8 servings. Each serving:

369 calories; 434 mg sodium; 96 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 40 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.22 gram fiber.

SPICED PUMPKIN BREAD WITH WALNUTS AND CURRANTS

This bread is best if made 1 or 2 days ahead, wrapped in foil and kept at room temperature to allow flavors and texture to develop. It can be frozen up to 1 month.

2/3 cup oil, plus extra for greasing pan

2 eggs

1 cup sugar

1 cup solid-pack canned pumpkin

1/3 cup dark corn syrup

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups flour, plus extra for preparing pan

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup chopped walnuts

1/2 cup dried currants

Butter, optional

Beat oil, eggs and sugar with electric mixer until thick and flowing, about 1 minute. Add pumpkin, corn syrup and vanilla and mix well.

Combine flour, baking soda, cinnamon, allspice, salt, walnuts and currants in medium bowl. Add to pumpkin mixture and mix well.

Pour into buttered and floured 9x5-inch loaf pan. Bake at 350 degrees until dark brown and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 1 hour, 10 minutes. Cool in pan 5 minutes. Turn onto wire rack to cool completely. Cut into thin slices and serve with softened butter if desired.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 12 servings without butter:

334 calories; 220 mg sodium; 35 mg cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 39 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.99 grams fiber;

CRANBERRY AND APPLE COMPOTE

This compote is great served with turkey, of course, but also with game and pork. Use it as a spread on sandwiches or mix it in a vinaigrette for green salads with celery root and walnuts and in maple syrup for weekend pancakes.

1 (12-ounce) bag cranberries, about 3 cups

3 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

2/3 cup sugar

2/3 cup apple juice

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

2 to 4 tablespoons water

Combine cranberries, apples, sugar, apple juice, cinnamon and cloves in 2-quart non-aluminum saucepan and stir well. Bring to boil over medium heat and simmer uncovered, stirring often, until thickened, about 5 1/2 minutes. Taste and add more sugar if needed. (Compote can be kept refrigerated for 1 week or frozen up to 3 months.) Stir well before serving and add water as needed if mixture is too thick. Serve chilled, at room temperature or warm.

16 to 20 servings. Each of 16 servings:

61 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.41 gram fiber.

* Claire Weisberg cup and saucer and tile from Freehand, Los Angeles.