A Midwest Match

By JOAN DRAKE

Oct. 15, 1997 12 AM PT

SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Blame it on a Midwest upbringing: Pork and apples are one of my favorite food combinations. Years ago it was breaded pork chops and mashed potatoes that accompanied my freshly made applesauce, but these days I’ve lightened the menu to roasted pork tenderloin steak and a spinach salad.

At 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter, pork tenderloin steaks roast quickly, yet remain moist and tender. Their delicate flavor is enhanced, not overwhelmed, by a light, creamy mustard sauce.

In my local markets, the tenderloin steaks are sold by pairs, sealed in plastic. Some are seasoned, but for this recipe, buy the unseasoned variety.

Any of the newly harvested cooking apples in the produce section may be used for the applesauce. The locally grown Golden Delicious used for testing this recipe were so sweet, I decided to mash and serve them without additions.

Pork Tenderloin with Creamy Mustard Sauce

Warm Applesauce

Spinach Salad

PORK TENDERLOIN WITH CREAMY MUSTARD SAUCE

1 (1-pound) pork tenderloin steak

1 teaspoon minced garlic

Coarsely ground black pepper

1 teaspoon minced shallot

3 tablespoons dry white wine

1 tablespoon stone-ground mustard

1/2 cup half and half

Salt

Rub pork tenderloin steak with minced garlic and season with coarsely ground pepper to taste. Place on rack in roasting pan and roast at 400 degrees until meat thermometer inserted in thickest part registers 155 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes after removing from oven.

Combine shallot and wine in 1-quart saucepan. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer 2 to 3 minutes until wine is reduced to about 2 tablespoons.

Reduce heat to low and blend in mustard, half and half and salt and pepper to taste. Heat through, stirring frequently, 1 to 2 minutes.

Cut tenderloin in 1/2- to 3/4-inch slices and serve with sauce.

3 to 4 servings. Each of 4 servings:

148 calories; 219 mg sodium; 66 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 0.02 gram fiber.

WARM APPLESAUCE

4 cooking apples (about 1 1/4 pounds)

Water

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Sugar, optional

Cinnamon or nutmeg, optional

Peel, core and cut apples into eighths. Drop slices into 1 quart water combined with 1 tablespoon lemon juice to prevent browning.

Drain apples and place in 3-quart saucepan with up to 2 tablespoons sugar, depending on sweetness of apples, and 1/4 cup water. Bring water to boil. Cover pan, reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until apples are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

Drain off excess liquid. Mash apples with fork or potato masher to desired consistency. Season to taste with lemon juice and sugar, cinnamon or nutmeg if desired. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

3 to 4 servings. Each of 4 servings:

82 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.75 gram fiber.

COUNTDOWN

30 minutes before: Season pork tenderloin and begin roasting.

25 minutes before: Prepare apples and begin cooking.

15 minutes before: Make mustard sauce.

10 minutes before: Make applesauce.

5 minutes before: Make vinaigrette and toss salad. Slice pork.

INGREDIENTS

STAPLES

Cinnamon

Garlic