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Oats We Can Love

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES;Bennett is the author of "Dinner for Two" (Barron's, 1994)

I won’t claim that the following oat recipes are completely virtuous. Both have too much fat for that. But they are delicious and satisfying, and that may contribute to your well-being. Plus you do get the wholesomeness of the oats themselves.

Oatmeal-Raisin Scones are a marvelous combination of oats and spices. Oatmeal-Buttermilk Muffins is a delicate confection created by Gale Gand of the Vanilla Bean Bakery in Northfield, Ill.

When making quick breads, such as muffins and scones, I recommend using low-fat products to the extent that they won’t be noticeable and using high-fat ingredients that have flavor impact. For example, I can’t detect any difference between whole and fat-free milk, so I use the latter, and I find low-fat buttermilk excellent in baking. Applesauce, however, is not a good fat substitute for butter. Only butter makes a scone so tender that it breaks when you breathe on it.

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OATMEAL-RAISIN SCONES

1 1/2 cups flour

1 cup quick-cooking oats

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 cup butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks, plus extra for greasing pan

1/3 cup fat-free milk

1 egg

1/2 cup golden raisins

Do not use instant oats in this recipe. Freeze leftover scones; to reheat them, warm on baking sheet at 300 degrees for 10 minutes. Do not microwave because they will get rubbery.

Combine flour, oats, sugar, baking powder, salt, ginger and nutmeg in bowl or food processor. Cut in butter until mixture is crumbly.

Beat together milk and egg in cup and pour over flour mixture. Stir until dough is damp. (It will be stiff.) Stir in raisins.

Gather dough into ball and place on greased baking sheet. Flatten to 9-inch circle. Cut into 8 pie-shaped wedges. Chill 30 minutes.

Bake at 400 degrees until scones are golden, about 15 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Separate scones. Serve warm or at room temperature.

8 scones. Each scone:

294 calories; 464 mg sodium; 58 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 40 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

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OATMEAL-BUTTERMILK MUFFINS

1 1/4 cups old-fashioned rolled oats plus extra for topping

1 cup buttermilk

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 egg

6 tablespoons butter, melted, plus extra for greasing muffin cups

1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup golden raisins

Any muffins not eaten immediately should be wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen. To reheat, thaw at room temperature, then toast or warm at 350 degrees 5 minutes. Do not microwave.

Combine 1 1/4 cups oats and buttermilk in bowl and set aside to soak 30 minutes.

Stir together flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon.

Mix egg into oats. Add melted butter and brown sugar. Stir in flour mixture and raisins. Do not beat.

Fill 9 greased muffin cups with batter. Batter won’t rise significantly, so cups can be filled to the top. Sprinkle each muffin with about 1/2 teaspoon oats. Chill 4 hours or overnight.

Bake at 400 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes.

9 muffins. Each muffin:

178 calories; 307 mg sodium; 45 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.24 gram fiber.

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