A Little Taste of Milan Right on Santa Monica

Sal Marino, whose family owns the 15-year-old New York-style Italian restaurant Marino’s on Melrose Avenue east of Highland, has opened his own place on the Westside. Called Il Grano (the Wheat), it moves into the huge space vacated by Gianfranco’s. One half is the Italian deli La Bottega; the other, dressed up with white tablecloths and with its own separate entrance, is Il Grano.

There’s Sal’s brother Mario looking more like he belongs on Rome’s Via Condotti than this quiet stretch of Santa Monica Boulevard, his dark-haired sister Rosanna who enthuses about the desserts, and later in the evening, the owner-chef himself who emerges from the kitchen to make the rounds of the tables.

With Chris Goosen, formerly of Modada, Marino has created a hip Italian menu that has more to do with Milan than red sauce New York.

When you sit down, he may send out a crostino topped with roasted red and yellow peppers accented with 100-year-old aceto balsamico. There’s a graceful tomato consomme garnished with cherry tomatoes, tender clams in a tomato broth, and a penne all’ arrabbiata with a good kick of hot red pepper.

I was happy with a tasty pork chop served with vinegared cherry Heppers, mashed potatoes and roasted shallot sauce.

Save room for dessert: a chocolate Vesuvio with lit rum rolling down the sides.

There’s also a great little Italian wine list. Complimenti.

BE THERE

Il Grano, 11363 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 477-7886. Open daily for dinner; Monday through Friday for lunch. Major credit cards accepted. Appetizers $4 to $11; main courses $12 to $18.50.