Gustaf Anders’ Smorgasbord Is Delightful Holiday Experience

Every year I fully intend to go to Gustaf Anders’ Christmas smorgasbord, and then somehow never get there. So when Dec. 1 rolled around, I swore I’d really do it.

And now I’m regretting all the years I’ve missed it, because it is truly a wonderful--and festive--restaurant experience. For the entire month of December the Santa Ana restaurant lays on a lavish traditional Swedish Christmas spread so extensive it takes up almost the entire length of the dining room. It’s not a mob scene though, more like a private party attended by guests who expect to see one another there year after year.

At our places, we find a sheet that explains the origin of the buffet and the proper etiquette. For example, the smorgasbord should be visited several times, it says, and then explains the order. First trip: herring and boiled potatoes. This may be my favorite part, the house-cured herrings are so diverse and interesting. Roll-mops are terrific; so is the spicier matjes herring. Of the half-dozen types, the pan-fried herring in a sweet-and-sour marinade is the most unusual and delicious.

Then, taking a clean plate, we sample the array of cold fish and seafood, led by a fine smoked trout salad, a superb whole poached salmon with chive sauce, a beautiful shrimp salad and Gustaf Anders’ exquisite gravlox. Time to down a couple of shots of ice-cold aquavit to make room for what follows.

Next, we delve into the warm fish dishes, and begin to wonder how we’ll ever make it through the entire menu. But somehow we rally for the cold meat course, which includes a marvelous ham smeared with whole grain mustard and studded with cloves. Oh, I almost forgot the cheese table where a handsome Stilton beckons.

By the fifth trip, hot meat dishes, I’m beginning to flag, cautiously sampling the fluffy Swedish meatballs, miniature sausages and a clove-scented ragout. I’m pacing myself for the display of desserts laid out atop the grand piano. With room for only one, it has to be the chef Ulf Anders’ princess cake. It’s a masterpiece of moist sponge cake layered with good strawberry jam and inches of thick whipped cream, the entire cake enrobed in a layer of pale green marzipan. Ummm.

I think it’s the beginning of a beautiful tradition--next year, you can be sure I’ll be there, too.

BE THERE

Gustaf Anders, South Coast Plaza Village, 1651 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana; (714) 668-1737. Christmas smorgasbord served lunch and dinner daily through Dec. 27. $39 per person at lunch; $49 at dinner. Lot parking.