Chocolate Indulgence

Valentine’s Day dinners seem to call for rich, indulgent desserts, often made with chocolate. My favorite desserts range from a dense, moist bittersweet chocolate indulgence cake to a brandy chestnut chiffon pie. The light cocoa meringues satisfy the desire for sweetness without as much richness.

Baking requires precision, and, unlike cooking on top of the stove or broiling in the oven, it’s almost impossible to effectively adjust the heat during baking, so accurate oven temperature is essential.

Always test the temperature with an oven thermometer when the oven is fully preheated. A mercury oven thermometer is best because it can stay in the oven all the time (except during oven self-cleaning). If the temperature registers higher or lower than specified for the recipe, adjust the oven temperature before baking.

Here are some other baking basics:

*Read each recipe through and understand the preparation sequence before preparing the ingredients.

*Line up the necessary equipment for each recipe.

*Measure standard baking pans across the top.

*Measure liquids in glass or clear plastic liquid measuring cups and dry ingredients in nesting dry measuring cups, and level them off with the straight edge of a knife.

*Measure flour by first stirring to aerate, then scooping it into a dry measuring cup. Level it off with the straight edge of a knife. When the recipe specifies 1/2 cup flour, sifted, then the flour is sifted after measuring.

*Use standard measuring spoons for tablespoon and teaspoon measurements.

BITTERSWEET INDULGENCE

Not overly sweet, this dense, moist, fudge-like cake with thick fudge-like frosting qualifies as a chocoholic’s dream. The coffee is not discernible, but it smooths out the chocolate flavor.

CAKE

7/8 cup (1 3/4 sticks) butter, plus extra for preparing pan

5 ounces bittersweet chocolate

3 tablespoons cocoa

6 eggs, separated

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup strong coffee

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/3 cup cake flour, sifted, plus extra for preparing pan

Pinch salt

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

FROSTING

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate

1/4 cup strong coffee

7 tablespoons powdered sugar, sifted

Pinch salt

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

CAKE

Melt butter and chocolate with cocoa in top of double boiler over simmering water. Pour into bowl, and cool slightly.

Beat egg yolks and sugar with electric mixer in another bowl until very thick and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add chocolate mixture, coffee and vanilla and beat on low speed until well mixed. Add flour and mix well.

Beat egg whites with electric mixer until foamy. Add salt and cream of tartar, and beat until whites hold soft, moist peaks. Stir 1/4 egg whites into batter. Fold in remaining whites.

Pour batter into 10-inch springform pan, the sides and bottom of which have been greased and the bottom fitted with circle of parchment paper or foil that has been greased and lightly dusted with flour. Place pan on baking sheet.

Bake at 300 degrees until few crumbs stick to toothpick inserted in center of cake, 45 to 50 minutes. Do not over bake. Cool on wire rack. It’s OK if surface is crackly. (Cake can be baked 1 day ahead and kept overnight at room temperature tightly covered or frozen up to one month.)

FROSTING

Melt butter and chocolate with coffee in top of double boiler over simmering water. Remove from heat and stir in powdered sugar, salt and vanilla until smooth. Let stand or refrigerate briefly until slightly thickened and of spreadable consistency.

Invert cake on platter and remove circle of parchment paper. Spread frosting over top and sides of cake. (Cake may be served immediately or held overnight at room temperature.)

12 to 14 servings. Each of 12 servings:

418 calories; 252 mg sodium; 153 mg cholesterol; 30 grams fat; 39 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.55 gram fiber.

BRANDY CHESTNUT CHIFFON PIE

. The contrast of the chocolate crumb crust accents the chestnut flavor. This pie is better if you make the pie one day ahead and let the chiffon set up completely. The egg whites in the filling are uncooked and potential carriers of food-borne illnesses. Pasteurized egg whites, available in most supermarkets, are recommended.

CHOCOLATE CRUMB CRUST

1 1/3 cups fine chocolate wafer crumbs (about 30 wafers)

2 tablespoons cocoa

5 tablespoons butter, melted

1/4 cup sugar

CHESTNUT FILLING

1 (10-ounce) can whole chestnuts in water, drained and pureed (about 1 cup)

3 egg yolks

2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup milk

2 1/2 tablespoons brandy

2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

2 tablespoons dark corn syrup

1/8 teaspoon allspice

2 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

5 egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch salt

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 1/2 tablespoons powdered sugar

CHOCOLATE CRUMB CRUST

Combine cookie crumbs, cocoa, melted butter and sugar in food processor or mixing bowl. Spread evenly into deep-dish 9-inch pie plate and press crumbs firmly up sides and on bottom.

Bake at 350 degrees until crust is firm and not crumbly (test by touching carefully), about 8 minutes. Cool on wire rack.

FILLING

Combine chestnuts, egg yolks, brown sugar, milk, brandy, gelatin, corn syrup and allspice in food processor or bowl of electric mixer and mix until smooth and flowing.

Pour into top of double boiler and cook over simmering water, stirring often, until mixture is hot to touch and begins to thicken around edges, about 8 minutes. Pour into bowl, and stir in 2 tablespoons vanilla. Refrigerate until chilled and just beginning to thicken, about 1 hour.

When filling is ready, beat egg whites with electric mixer until foamy. Add salt and cream of tartar, and whip until egg whites hold soft, moist peaks. Stir 1/4 egg whites into filling, then fold in remaining whites. Transfer filling to cooled crust, and refrigerate overnight.

Whip cream with powdered sugar and remaining 1/2 teaspoon vanilla. Spread it attractively over pie or make rosettes over surface with pastry bag fitted with star tip. (Pie can be refrigerated 4 hours before serving.)

8 servings. Each serving:

456 calories; 258 mg sodium; 165 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 55 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.41 gram fiber.