Huevos Rancheros

Fried eggs, a well-spiced tomato sauce, beans and tortillas: Huevos rancheros are a great way to start the day.

* Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop: A lighter version of the old classic, the huevos rancheros here are fried tortillas smeared with refried beans, topped with over-easy fried eggs and swimming in a cilantro-spiked tomato sauce. (Huevos rancheros, $6.95.) Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop/Cafe, 6145 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, (213) 467-7678.

* La Cabanita: Hungry UPS drivers flock to this Long Beach cafe, which specializes in the home cooking of Michoacan and serves a good huevos rancheros: eggs over easy, covered with a good spicy tomato sauce and melted cheese, with beans, a small salad, guacamole and a jalapeno on the side, plus your choice of corn or flour tortillas. Served at breakfast only. (Huevos rancheros, $3.95.) La Cabanita, 700 Pine Ave., Long Beach, (562) 436-2017.

* El Chamizal: Although the subtitle of this old-fashioned California-

Mexican restaurant is “La Casa de las Parrillades” (The House of Grilled Dishes), the huevos rancheros served at breakfast and lunch are delicious. (Huevos rancheros, $3.75.) El Chamizal, 711 Pacific Blvd., Huntington Park, (213) 583-3251.

* James’ Beach: The West Beach Cafe used to be famous for its huevos rancheros, and James’ Beach, in the same location, has carried on the tradition. The rather awesome plate of food includes two eggs over easy with tomatillo and ranchero salsa on a flour tortilla with black beans, guacamole, a chile relleno and a quesadilla on the side. Served Saturday and Sunday at brunch. (Huevos rancheros, $10.50.) James’ Beach, 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice, (310) 823-5396.

* Merida: Tucked into a courtyard just off the main drag in Pasadena’s Old Town, this Yucatan Mexican restaurant opens for breakfast every day at 8 a.m. and serves huevos rancheros with freshly made tomato sauce, two eggs, and your choice of black beans or pinto beans, corn or flour tortillas. (Huevos rancheros, $3.95.) Merida, 20 E. Colorado, Blvd, Pasadena, (626) 792-7371.

* Guelaguetza: At these terrific little Oaxacan cafes, chef Soledad Lopez makes a great huevos rancheros with black or pinto beans, tortillas, eggs, a lively salsa and rice on the side. (Huevos rancheros, $5.) Guelaguetza, 3337 1/2 W. 8th St., Los Angeles (213) 427-0601; 11127 Palms Blvd., Palms, (310) 837-8600.

* Colima Restaurant: A classic huevos rancheros can be found at this close-to-downtown restaurant: fried eggs in a spicy sauce, beans, rice and your choice of tortillas. Served every day at breakfast. (Huevos rancheros, $4.50.) Colima Restaurant, 400 W. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 972-9537.