The Full Chicken

American diners may be fixated on chicken breasts, but let’s not forget that there are other, equally delicious parts of the bird.

* Ocean Star: At this vast Hong Kong-style restaurant, sooner or later one of the dim sum carts will offer you knuckly, tasty stewed chicken feet. We recommend them. (Stewed chicken feet, $1.80.) Ocean Star, 145 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park, (626) 308-2128.

* Perroche: Chef Grady Atkins’ delicate parfait of Kendor chicken livers looks like pa^te but is infinitely lighter and fluffier, with just the right hints of Port and brandy. Served with crostini. (Chicken liver parfait, $7.) Perroche, 11929 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 766-1179.

* Barney Greengrass: Some say the best chopped chicken liver in town is found atop the Beverly Hills department store Barneys New York. Eat it in the restaurant as an appetizer with pickles, onion, tomato and a choice of bagel or bialy--or buy it to go from the deli. (Chopped liver: appetizer, $9; by the pound, $7.50.) Barney Greengrass, Barneys New York, 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills (310) 777-5877.

* Chris Michael’s Restaurant in the PDC: In the mornings, you can stop by this Pacific Design Center restaurant for a chicken liver omelet. Served with toast and seasoned country-fried potatoes. (Chicken liver omelet, $6.50.) Chris Michael’s Restaurant, PDC, 8687 Melrose Ave., , West Hollywood, (310) 289-8877.

* Sumiya: Yakitori is barbecued, skewered chicken; one of the best offerings at this Valley yakitori bar is two skewers of plump, marinated chicken gizzards. (Chicken gizzards, $3.) Sumiya, 4517 Sepulveda Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 995-8580.

* Buffalo Club: Chef Patrick Healy makes uncommonly good Buffalo wings--the partially deboned wings are marinated in spices, then baked, coated with crunchy Japanese bread crumbs and fried. The crisp chicken wings are served with a small vine-tomato and red onion salad with blue cheese and a balsamic vinegar. (Buffalo wings, $11.) Buffalo Club, 1520 Olympic Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 450-8600.

* Cha Cha Chicken: These dreamy--and compellingly spicy--chicken wings are soaked in coconut milk and fried, then briefly stewed in a pineapple hot sauce. Each order comes with a choice of two side dishes, including black beans, slaw and fried plantains. (Spicy wings: 1/4 pound, $4.95; 1 pound, $5.95; 2 pounds, $10.95.) Cha Cha Chicken, 1906 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 581-1684 .