Brewing a Future

Was the brew pub a mere passing fancy of the early ‘90s? Maybe not. If Wolf Creek Restaurant & Brewing Company is any indication, the future for restaurants that brew their own beer seems bright.

Wolf Creek is actually a point of light unto itself, a genuinely accomplished restaurant in the fringe of Valencia’s rugged back country, located hard by a Ralphs in a spacious mall. It may be a brew pub, but it’s also scoring big as a family restaurant, to judge from the crowd. Every time I’ve been there, I’ve waited at least 40 minutes for a table.

The decor is vaguely Southwestern. The dining area has Native American pottery mounted smartly above tables. It also has a cool concrete floor splotched with colored paint. Even cooler are the three enormous copper-plated fermentation tanks behind the bar, fully visible through a huge plate-glass window.

You’ll probably want to wet your whistle with one of the good house brewskis. My favorite is Red Ale, a light, nicely balanced brew made with five different malts and a touch of honey. I also like Golden Eagle, a mellow malt with a hoppy finish. If you prefer wine, Wolf Creek has a nice selection.

The menu is eclectic and the food is not at all bad, especially compared to what you get in the typical brew pub. There are plenty of burgers, pastas and salads, but also heady, imaginative items like Taos eggrolls and cowboy steak, Southwestern takes on popular American dishes.

Everyone gets hot sourdough bread and a good, deep purple tapenade as a palate teaser, and things just get better from there. The giant ale batter onion rings are the most delicious I’ve tasted in a long time. They come with a terrific chipotle pepper catsup, which I ended up putting on just about everything I ate here, except desserts.

The Taos eggrolls have a spicy chicken, corn, cheese and toasted pepper filling, rounded out with a healthy dose of cilantro, giving them complexity; but these deep-fried rolls are probably too heavy for an appetizer.

A neutral nod to the pizzas, all medium-thick crusts topped with a bland mozzarella and Fontina cheese blend. But the one called spicy Thai pizza kicks, thanks to a layer of peanut sauce between the crust and the cheese.

No complaints about burgers and sandwiches, though. Ale-marinated tri tip is one of the tenderest tri-tip sandwiches around, and the toppings--red onions, fresh tomatoes, Jack cheese and roasted garlic mayo--are all good. There’s a nice grilled portabello mushroom sandwich on a springy bun with the same toppings as the tri tip.

I can’t say much for the mushy pastas, but entrees are uniformly fine. The citrus chipotle chicken--a double breast marinated in lemon, lime and orange juices and chipotle peppers, then char-grilled--is tender, juicy and flavorful. Cowboy steak is a nicely spiced 12-ounce rib eye with garlic mashed potatoes and fried cactus paddles (nopalitos).

Wolf Creek has its own pastry chef, which explains the exceptionally good desserts. Two of the best are an ultra-rich German chocolate cake and a rich, creamy Grand Marnier cheesecake.

As for the best liquid dessert, that would be Wyder’s peach or pear hard cider, $3.50 a pint. Wolf Creek, I think you’ll definitely be around for a while.

BE THERE

Wolf Creek Restaurant & Brewing Company, 27746 N. McBean Parkway, Valencia. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. Parking in lot. Beer and wine only. All major cards. Suggested dishes: ale batter onion rings, $4.95; citrus chipotle chicken, $10.95; cowboy steak, $14.95. Call: (805) 263-9653.