Despite Decor, Amadeus’ Menu Is More Trendy Than Classic

“Oh, no,” my dining companion whispered, stifling a giggle when she caught sight of our waiter. “It’s the puffy shirt!”

Oh, yes, indeed. Not only that, but with the added indignity of a fluff of lace at the neck. Very 18th century, which is the theme of the new Amadeus Restaurant & Mozart Bar on La Cienega’s restaurant row. We had already taken in the vanilla-scented candles (of which the composer was most fond, I’m sure), the soaring pillars, the row of lion’s heads gazing down from on high, the tall beige chairs and grandiose chandeliers, the paintings of bewigged Madame somebody or other in period decolletage. Amadeus is the kind of place that just cries out for a Liberace tickling the piano keys in the spacious bar, where you can also dine if that is your pleasure.

I am willing to bet, though, that Mozart never noshed on spicy shrimp and mango pizza. Or tucked into a smoked duck and potato spring roll and poached whitefish with snow peas and grapefruit in a light curry nage or any of the other trendy California cuisine on the menu. It’s even harder to believe the wunderkind composer would tolerate the all-purpose jazz that bleats incessantly from tinny-sounding speakers, reducing you to intermittent shouting toward your neighbor’s ear.

The food isn’t terrible. It’s not very good, either (though I did enjoy the roasted sweet corn soup and the $16 green bean salad). That’s not such a surprise when the chef’s resume includes the West Hollywood hot spot Drai’s, which has been enormously successful serving mediocre food to people who don’t really care about it one way or the other. Stacy Mitchell Gantzos, former maitre d’ at Jimmy’s, Drai’s and, most recently, Spago Beverly Hills, is the muse behind Amadeus, and she’s drawn some of that crowd here, at least for a look. We entertained ourselves watching a young guy in a black eye patch punching numbers into his cell phone and an opulently curved brunet in a black catsuit mesmerizing the gentlemen at the bar. Not exactly riveting, scene-wise. But there’s always those puffy shirts.

BE THERE

Amadeus Restaurant & Mozart Bar, 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 360-1777. Open Monday through Saturday for dinner. Valet parking. Appetizers $7 to $25; main courses $21 to $26.