Inspections but No Grades for O.C. Eateries

It has become the stamp of approval that diners care more about than any food review: the letter grade from health inspectors that restaurants are required to display in their windows.

But you won’t see them in Orange County any time soon, despite the popularity of the grades elsewhere in Southern California.

Bill Ford, assistant director of the Orange County Health Care Agency’s Environmental Health Division, said the scoring system can be misleading and gives restaurant patrons a “false sense of security.”

The grades are based on how well establishments perform during periodic, random inspections that check for such things as proper food storage and cleanliness. Each restaurant receives a sign with a letter grade based on the results of the inspection.

But Ford pointed out that officials inspect individual restaurants only about four times a year. As a result, the letter grade isn’t necessarily an accurate reflection of condition at any given time, he said.

Another drawback to the grade system, Ford said, is that some owners become more concerned about getting a top grade than about maintaining clean and safe conditions year-round.

“We avoid the scoring system because we found that the operator becomes more focused on scores than the actual violations,” he said. After getting a good score, “they may go back to previous practices. Meanwhile, they have this big sticker in the window.”

Los Angeles County’s grading system was established a year ago. Many diners now swear by it, saying the signs give the public a clear idea of how eateries fared during inspections.

Orange County inspectors visit about 11,000 businesses per year. The majority are restaurants, liquor stores, markets and bakeries. Warehouses, food-processing plants and cart vendors also are inspected.

For the most part, Ford said, Orange County establishments handle food safely, though there are some exceptions. Over the last year, the county temporarily closed 183 establishments, primarily because of heavy vermin infestations.

While infestations are a problem, Ford said his inspectors are more concerned about food-temperature violations. Improper cooling and reheating of foods can result in the growth of disease-causing bacteria. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in Atlanta has identified such bacteria as the main cause of food-borne illnesses, Ford said.

Inspectors also try to ascertain whether appropriate measures are taken to prevent cross-contamination. This can occur, he said, if prepared foods come in contact with juice from raw meat.

Anyone with questions or concerns about an eating establishment can call the county Health Care Agency at (714) 667-3600.

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Watching What You Eat

Health inspectors typically make four unannounced visits per year to Orange County restaurants in search of improperly stored, handled or prepared food. What they look for:

Outside:

Outdoor food preparation

Trash overflow

Rodent, cockroach infestation

Walk-in refrigerator:

Uncovered food containers

Food stored on floor

Raw meats dripping into prepared food

Rodent, cockroach infestation

Dry storage:

Outdated stock

Unlabeled or dented cans

Cleaning supplies stored near dry goods

Rodent, cockroach infestation

Kitchen:

Unsanitary food preparation conditions

Preparation of cold food above 45 degrees, hot food below 140 degrees

Clogged or inoperable sink

Cleaning supplies stored near food

Dishwashing water below 120 degrees

Restroom:

Empty soap, paper towel dispensers

No hot running water

Dining room:

Sneeze guard missing from buffet table

Cold food served above 45 degrees, hot food below 140 degrees

Food servers with unconfined hair

Dirty tables

Some common food-related diseases

Campylobacter jejuni

Onset: 2-5 days

Duration: 1-5 days

Annual cases: Up to 4 million

Foods: raw chicken, beef, milk, eggs

Transmission: cross contamination, insufficient cooking heat

Symptoms: diarrhea, headache, fever

*

Clostridium perfringens

Onset: 6-24 hours

Duration: 24 hours

Annual cases: 650,000

Foods: refried beans, chili, meat and poultry dishes

Transmission: contaminated raw food

Symptoms: diarrhea, abdominal pain

*

Salmonella

Onset: 8 hours to 3 days

Duration: 2-5 days

Annual cases: 3 million

Foods: raw or undercooked meat, poultry, eggs

Transmission: fecal contamination

Symptoms: vomiting, abdominal pain, diarrhea, fever

*

Staphylococcus aureus

Onset: 1-8 hours

Duration: 1-2 days

Annual cases: more than 1 million

Foods: cooked meat dishes, potato or macaroni salad, dairy products

Transmission: unsanitary handling practices

Symptoms: vomiting, diarrhea

By the Numbers

(for fiscal year 1997-98 in Orange County)

53,695: Pounds of food condemned

25,600: Inspections conducted

6,603: Number of restaurants

2,017: Consumer complaints investigated

559: Food-related illnesses investigated

183: Food establishments ordered closed

54: Health inspectors

Source: Bill Ford, Orange County Health Care Agency

Researched by BRADY MacDONALD / Los Angeles Times