Hans Rockenwagner Throws a Pan Party

The mingled scents of frying garlic and onion perfume the afternoon’s crisp ocean breeze, and a small tray bearing bite-sized squares of Alsatian onion tart is stripped clean by men and women in the rumpled, rolled-sleeve linen shirts that pass for the Westside’s mufti.

Hans Rockenwagner, chef of the Santa Monica restaurant that bears his name, presides over the backyard of his recently remodeled Venice home, looking very much like a dad surveying his kingdom from behind a barbecue grill. But the center of attention today--the reason all these people are gathered around, Champagne glasses in hand--is not a slab of ribs but a huge pan ready to be filled with lobsters, clams, mussels and more. Shallow, broad and still new enough to sport a silvery finish, the focus of Rockenwagner’s latest obsession is a Spanish paella, a great flying saucer of a pan that is large enough to engorge a platoon.

It’s also a great excuse for a party.

Rockenwagner first cooked with a paella--the name for the pan as well as for the dish cooked in it--in, of all places, Hawaii. He’d rented a Maui vacation house earlier this year next door to Shep Gordon, a Hollywood agent famous for his representation of rock gods and chefs. Gordon had invited Rockenwagner to a weekend party and happened to mention the massive paella Sammy Hagar had given him for his birthday.

“I said, ‘Let me make something with it,’ ” Rockenwagner tells the guests who have gathered around the paella to watch him create this afternoon’s main course and hear the story of the pan.

A couple of months before his trip to Maui, Rockenwagner had visited Spain with his girlfriend and had eaten all sorts of paellas--including one made with fideos, angel hair-fine pasta strands that are usually browned in oil before being simmered in broth. Gordon was more than happy to have someone willing to break in his present. The only problem: Rockenwagner had never made a paella before.

“It was pretty bold for me to try it on a whim for 35 people,” Rockenwagner says over the sound of sizzling oil. He tosses a bowlful of diced red bell peppers, then yellow and green, into the pan.

Even accomplished chefs, Rockenwagner is trying to tell us, tend to have moments of doubt when they try out something new for a crowd. Of course, recreating remembered dishes, remembered flavors, is one of the things chefs do. And nobody at the party is surprised when they learn that the dish was the center of attention at a party filled with celebrities who, at any other gathering, would themselves be center of attention. Imagine being upstaged by a giant pan.

On the plane back from Hawaii, one thought kept running through Rockenwagner’s head: “I’ve got to get one of those pans.”

Needless to say, he did get one of those pans. Actually, he’s got two: one that is simply huge and another that is so big you get images of European food festivals where a giant frittata or vast fish fry is served to every farmer, traveler and village dweller within miles. Today he is using the one that is simply huge.

In Spain, the most authentic paellas are made over wood fires, but gas burners are used as well these days. Rockenwagner’s paella came with three gas burner rings--small, medium and large--to ensure that the large pan receives heat at several points.

Strands of thin golden fideo, previously toasted with olive oil in the oven, now go into Rockenwagner’s paella, along with a good amount of lobster stock. The cooking process at this point is very risotto-like: The noodles, like rice, absorb the stock, and more broth is added until the pasta is tender.

“OK, where are my stirrers?” Rockenwagner asks. The best part of making a party paella is having a supply of willing helpers. Rockenwagner empties a bowl of green-tipped New Zealand mussels into the middle of the paella and begins burying the shellfish under the noodles. Two guests, armed with long wooden spoons, pick up the chef’s cue and mimic his actions. A couple others maintain vigil over the noodles, making sure they don’t stick to the pan.

Black mussels and clams go in next--the black mussels buried like the green ones, the clams spread over the top like rocks on a beach.

“Guys, here--it’s sticking,” says Rockenwagner keeping a good-natured watch over his crew. The conversation flows between stirs and sips of beer and RockenKir, a drink of Champagne and fresh strawberry syrup that Rockenwagner serves at his restaurant. His girlfriend, Patti Shin, keeps everyone well-fed during the cooking with tzatziki, a yogurt-cucumber dip, and melitzana, an eggplant dip served with pretzel bread baked at Rockenwagner.

As the shellfish begin to open, the stirrers poke and prod at the dish as if searching for buried treasure and revealing great-looking mussels and clams. Quicker-cooking shrimp, calamari and lobster meat that had been cooked briefly in the lobster stock (to give the stock even more flavor) now go into the pan. Finally, fresh shelled peas and Rockenwagner’s secret ingredient--several good shakes of Cholula hot sauce--finish the dish.

Dinner, fit for a crowd, is served.

Menu

RockenKir

Melitzana and Tzatziki Dips

Alsatian Onion Tart

Heirloom Tomato Salad With Sherry Vinaigrette

Seafood Paella

Seafood Paella

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 20 minutes * Active Work Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Note that most of the work of making the paella--cleaning the seafood, toasting the fideos and chopping the vegetables--can be done long before your guests arrive. Allow about 35 minutes for the cooking of the paella during the party.

2 (10-ounce) packages fideos (rolled vermicelli noodles), broken into about 1/2-inch lengths

Olive oil

1 1/2 pounds New Zealand (green-tipped) mussels

1 1/2 pounds black mussels

1 1/2 pounds Manila clams

3/4 pound calamari

1/2 pound rock shrimp

2 lobsters

1 onion, coarsely diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 red bell pepper, cut to 1/2-inch dice

1 green bell pepper, cut to 1/2-inch dice

1 yellow bell pepper, cut to 1/2-inch dice

1 dried ancho chile

6 cups Lobster Stock (see separate recipe)

3/4 pound shelled fresh or frozen petit or English peas

1 lemon

1 bunch chives

2 teaspoons hot sauce, optional

TOASTING THE NOODLES

* Spread lengths of fideo on large baking sheet (or pans) and drizzle 1/4 cup olive oil over top. Mix noodles and oil evenly so noodles are coated all around. Toast in oven at 350 degrees until noodles turn medium-brown in color, 8 to 10 minutes. You may have to stir noodles occasionally during cooking to ensure even toasting.

PREPARING THE SEAFOOD

* Clean mussels and clams by brushing them under cold running water and pulling off beards from mussels if necessary. Set aside.

* Clean calamari by removing cartilage and cutting body into 1/2-inch strips. Set aside.

* Clean and devein rock shrimp. Set aside.

* Rinse lobsters and remove claws and knuckles. Cut lobster tails with shells into medallions (take advantage of natural separations and use sharp serrated knife).

MAKING THE PAELLA

* Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in large paella pan or turkey roaster over medium-high heat. Add onions and saute 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and saute about 3 minutes. Add red, green and yellow bell peppers along with whole ancho chile and saute 3 to 5 minutes.

* Add toasted noodles and 3 cups hot stock and cook, stirring constantly, 3 to 5 minutes or until noodles absorb most of liquid.

* Add New Zealand (large) mussels and lobster claws (if uncooked; may also be poached in Lobster Stock, then added at end of cooking to warm through) along with 3 cups additional stock and bury shellfish under noodles for faster cooking. (Be careful when adding seafood; a lot of steam may rise from pan.) Maintain watch over pan, stirring as needed to prevent noodles from sticking. Add 1 to 2 cups more stock as needed during cooking when noodles absorb liquid.

* After 5 to 8 minutes cooking large mussels, add smaller black mussels and clams, burying them under noodles as with larger mussels and stirring and adding stock as needed.

* When some of shellfish begins to open, about 10 minutes after adding small mussels and clams, add shrimp, calamari, lobster tail meat (and claws if lobsters were cooked previously in lobster stock), peas and 1 to 2 cups additional stock. Cook, stirring, until almost all seafood shells have opened and noodles have absorbed most of stock (it should not be dry), 3 to 5 more minutes.

Discard any shellfish that have not opened, add lemon wedges on side of pan, sprinkle generously with chives and serve family-style in pan. Serve hot sauce on the side, if desired.

8 servings. Each serving: 758 calories, 404 mg sodium, 193 mg cholesterol, 25 grams fat, 85 grams carbohydrates, 53 grams protein, 2.80 grams fiber.

Lobster Stock

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Active Work Time: 20 minutes

Don’t let the stock boil or it will have a slightly soapy taste. Get the lobster shells from your fish monger or freeze the shells from the lobsters you cook.

4 uncooked lobster shells, or 6 cooked shells

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups tomato juice

1 1/2 gallons water

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 small bay leaf

* Wrap lobster skeletons in old kitchen towel and crush with rolling pin into walnut-sized pieces.

* Drain shells in a colander set over a bowl to catch excess juice. Reserve the liquid.

* Heat olive oil over medium-high heat in large, heavy stockpot. Add lobster shells and stir for 5 minutes, until slightly golden.

* Add onion and garlic and cook until vegetables have begun to soften, 3 to 4 minutes.

* Add tomato paste and stir continuously for 2 more minutes.

* Add tomato juice, water, peppercorns, bay leaf and reserved lobster juice. Simmer mixture, partially covered, over medium heat for 25 minutes.

* Strain stock through colander into clean pan, pressing firmly on solids to extract any remaining liquid. Discard solids.

* Bring stock to a simmer and reduce to about 1 1/2 gallons of lobster stock. Strain through sieve.

6 cups. Each 1/2 cup: 12 calories, 4 mg sodium, 0 cholesterol, 1 gram fat, 2 grams carbohydrates, 0 protein, 0.12 grams fiber.

Melitzana

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour, plus 8 hours draining * Active Work Time: 25 minutes

Melitzana is a healthful light dip that can be served with bread, crackers or crudites.

4 eggplants, halved lengthwise

2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons plain yogurt

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped dill

2 shallots, finely chopped

* Using large fork or tongs, hold eggplants over gas flame until blistered and black all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer eggplants to large roasting pan and finish cooking in 400-degree oven until flesh is very tender, about 30 minutes. Remove eggplants from oven and cool.

When cool enough to handle, peel eggplants and discard charred skin (don’t worry if a few pieces remain). Place eggplant flesh in fine sieve lined with cheesecloth over work bowl. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight to drain.

When eggplant has drained, bring 4 corners of cheesecloth together and gently squeeze out any remaining moisture from eggplant.

In food processor, puree eggplant flesh with garlic until very smooth, scraping down sides of bowls as necessary. With motor running, add olive oil in thin, steady stream, then add yogurt. Stir in salt, pepper, vinegar, dill and shallots.

Store, covered, in refrigerator until ready to serve (can be prepared up to 2 days in advance).

1 quart. Each tablespoon: 10 calories; 19 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.07 gram fiber.

Tzatziki

Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes, plus 8 hours, 45 minutes draining * Active Work Time: 15 minutes

Along with the Melitzana, the Tzatziki is a fresh light dip that can be served with bread, crackers and crudites.

1 1/2 cups plain yogurt

1/2 cucumber, peeled, seeded and coarsely grated

1 teaspoon salt

1 small clove garlic, finely chopped

Freshly ground white pepper to taste

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh dill, or 1/2 teaspoon dried

* Line fine sieve with double thickness of cheesecloth and set over work bowl. Place yogurt in sieve, cover with plastic wrap and drain in refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.

* When yogurt has drained, add salt, toss and drain another 45 minutes. Discard liquid.

* Wrap grated cucumber in kitchen towel and squeeze out as much moisture as possible.

* Combine yogurt, garlic and white pepper in mixer bowl and beat on slow speed. Add olive oil in thin, steady stream as mixer runs. Stir in cucumber and lemon juice, then taste and adjust seasonings as necessary.

* Store, covered, in refrigerator until ready to serve and add dill just before serving. (Tzatziki can be prepared, without adding dill, up to 3 days before serving.)

2 cups. Each tablespoon: 31 calories; 84 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.03 gram fiber.

RockenKir

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Active Work Time: 15 minutes

1 pound, 2 ounces hulled and sliced strawberries

2 (750-milliliter) bottles Champagne

12 whole strawberries, slit partway in middle (optional)

Heat strawberries in double boiler, covered with plastic wrap, over pan of simmering water until juice drains from fruit, about 25 minutes. Drain juice through dampened cheesecloth and discard solids. Refrigerate juice. (Can be made 1 day ahead.)

Pour 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons strawberry juice in Champagne flute. Carefully top off with Champagne, pouring gently down edge of glass to create separation between Champagne and strawberry juice. Garnish with fresh slit strawberry.

12 drinks. Each drink: 109 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.23 gram fiber.

Alsatian Onion Tart

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes. Active Cooking Time: 25 minutes.

This is a traditional fall dish served on the border of Germany and Alsace. It can be served as an appetizer or hors d’oeuvre or coupled with a salad or main course.

PASTRY

3 cups flour

1/2 ounce fresh yeast or 1/2 ounce active dry yeast

1/2 teaspoon sugar

3/4 cup lukewarm water

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt

* Place flour in large, warmed bowl and make well in the center.

* Combine yeast, sugar and 1/2 cup of warm water in glass measuring cup and stir to slightly dissolve. Set aside to proof, about 10 minutes.

* Stir remaining 1/4 cup warm water and olive oil into yeast mixture.

* Put yeast mixture into well in the center of flour and begin drawing flour into the center, blending until all liquid is absorbed. Add pinch of salt toward end of blending.

* Turn dough out onto lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic about 10 minutes.

* Lightly oil large bowl and place dough in it.

* Turn dough to coat it with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and set it aside to rise in a very warm, moist place.

* When dough has doubled in size and appears spongy and dimpled, punch it down, cover with a kitchen towel and start to make filling.

FILLING

2 tablespoons olive oil

10 white onions, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced

Scant 1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 3/4 cups half-and-half

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

1/2 pound lean bacon, minced

* Heat large, heavy skillet over medium-low heat and add olive oil. Add onions and saute covered for 7 to 8 minutes or until translucent. Stir in cumin seeds, salt and black pepper. Set aside to cool.

TO ASSEMBLE TART

* Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Gently turn dough out onto a large floured surface and roll it into a 20x15-inch rectangle. Press dough firmly into bottom and sides of lightly oiled 18x13-inch baking sheet with 1-inch sides.

* In large bowl, beat together eggs, half-and-half, paprika, salt and white pepper. Distribute onions evenly over base of crust.

* Gently pour in custard mixture, taking care not to disturb even distribution of onions.

* Scatter bacon evenly over top and bake in hot oven for 30 minutes, or until custard is set in center and bacon is crisp. Cool for at least 10 minutes, then slice into rectangles to serve as appetizers or into small squares too serve as hors d’oeuvres.

* Tart should be served warm. If it has cooled, reheat in oven at 325 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes. It is traditional to let the bacon cook on top of tart. If you want to cook out some fat, fry it over low heat for a few minutes until lightly golden brown but not crisp. Drain on paper towels and proceed as directed.

12 appetizer servings or 24 hors d’oeuvres. Each serving: 326 calories, 239 mg sodium, 93 mg cholesterol, 21 grams fat, 26 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams protein, 0.32 grams fiber.

Sherry Vinaigrette

Total Preparation Time: 5 minutes * Active Work Time: 5 minutes

Hans Rockenwagner used this vinaigrette over end-of-the-season heirloom tomatoes. The vinaigrette works well on other vegetables too. Try it on steamed green beans or haricots verts, on roasted eggplant or whatever looks good and fresh in the market.

1 shallot, peeled and finely diced

1 tablespoon honey

1/2 cup Sherry

1/2 cup seasoned rice vinegar

2 1/2 cups light-flavored olive oil

Salt, black pepper

* Combine shallot, honey, Sherry and rice vinegar and slowly whisk in olive oil. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

3 1/2 cups vinaigrette. Each tablespoon: 93 calories, 40 mg sodium, 0 cholesterol, 10 grams fat, 1 gram carbohydrates, 0 protein, 0 fiber.