Corn Tamales

Neatly packaged in a corn husk or banana leaf, these steamed pillows of fresh corn and masa are at the same time salty and sweet, smooth yet slightly grainy.

* Border Grill: Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken’s green tamales, served as an appetizer, are three lovely bundles of creamed corn, hominy and butter, served with a little salsa fresca and sour cream on the side. (Green corn tamales, $6.50.) Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-1655.

* Prado: This Caribbean restaurant offers Jamaican tamales--green corn tamales with homemade tomatillo salsa, sour cream and golden caviar. Order either as an appetizer or an entree. (Jamaican tamales, lunch appetizer, $7.75; lunch entree, $8.75; dinner appetizer, $10.75; dinner entree, $13.75.) Prado, 244 N. Larchmont Blvd., Hancock Park, (323) 467-3871.

* Sonora Cafe: This elegant Southwestern restaurant makes a wonderful appetizer tamale of fresh corn, a little cornmeal, butter, cream, chiles and cheese. They arrive at the table with a dark Oaxaca-style mole sauce. (Green corn tamales, appetizer, $6.75.) Sonora Cafe, 180 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 857-1800.

* La Parrilla: At the Tarzana branch of this reputable chain, they make their own green corn tamales and top them with chiles and melted Monterey Jack cheese; rice and black beans come on the side. (Green corn tamales, $7.95.) La Parrilla, 19601 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, (818) 708-7422.

* Taco Mesa: Ivan Calderon keeps the food fresh and delicious at his small chain of restaurants. He serves vegetarian tamales made with zucchini, green corn, onions and a blend of cheeses; he steams them in banana leaves, Yucatan-style, rather than in the usual corn husks, on the ground that it keeps the filling more moist. (Vegetarian tamales, $3.49; two for $5.49.) Taco Mesa, 647 W. 19th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 642-0629; 22922 Los Alisos Blvd., Mission Viejo, (949) 472-3144; Saddleback Shopping Center, 3533 E. Chapman Ave., Orange, (714) 633-3922.

* Corn Maiden Co.: At every farmer’s market where this Culver City catering company has a stand, there’s a line down the block for its delicious fresh tamales. Their green corn tamales each contain less than one gram of fat. Choose from an extensive list of sauces, including tomatillo-chipotle, orange-achiote and delicious black bean sauces. (Green corn tamales, $2.25; one dozen large, $21; one dozen small, $14.70.) Corn Maiden Co., 10301 Washington Blvd., Culver City, (310) 202-6180.